Travel Thumbnail #1: Bent's Old Fort

Step back to the 1830s and 1840s with a visit to this adobe fort along the historic Santa Fe Trail

This is the first of a series of periodic reports on specific places I've visited -- and you might want to as well. Post a comment or let me know directly what you think of this new Travel Babel feature.

The Place: Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site, CO

The Story: This "castle on the Plains" is a faithful reconstruction of a fortified adobe trading post built on this this site in 1833 by brothers William and Charles Bent and Ceran St. Vrain along the Santa Fe Trail's Mountain Route (that is, the northern route). That section of the Santa Fe Trail followed the Arkansas River, which provided water for livestock and humans in the Great American Desert.

Bent's Fort was the linchpin of the Bent-St.Vrain Company's trade that stretched from Fort St.Vrain to the north to Fort Adobe to the south. Cheyenne, Arapaho, Arikara, Comanche, Kiowa, Shoshone and Sioux Native Americans were known to have traded at Bent's Fort, but the main trade was with the Southern Cheyennes and Arapahos. Bent's Fort took in buffalo robes and passed out supplies, but it also resupplied explorers, adventurers, pioneers and the US Army and also was a place for wagon repairs, livestock, food, water, hospitality and congenial company.

Bent's Fort welcomed anyone traveling along the Santa Fe Trail, including Indians, soldiers, Mexicans, Germans, French, Irish and blacks -- tolerance that was not to be taken for granted in its heyday. William bent encouraged alliances among people who would later war violently on each other.

During Mexican-American War in 1846, Bent's Fort was a staging area for Colonel Stephen Watts Kearny's "Army of the West," which seized land in what is now New Mexico but was eventually defeated in California. Until a combination of disease and the US Army's unwillingness to compensate William Bent for garrisoning Kearny's soldiers caused its abandonment in 1849, the fort was the only major permanent Anglo settlement along the Santa Fe Trail between Missouri and Mexican holdings.

The fort was reconstructed for the US Bicentennial in 1976 according to archaeological excavations and original sketches, paintings and diaries. A skeleton Park Service staff is on hand all year round, supplemented in summer by costumed docents and re-enactors who recapture life in this frontier fort for 21st century visitors.

Today, visitors see living quarters, workshops, store rooms, ramparts, kitchens and trading areas.

Tips for visiting: Sunscreen, water and bug spray are useful. Mid-day summer temperatures in the 90s or higher are not unusual.

Cost: Adults, $3; children aged 6 to 12, $2 under 6 years , free. Also free are holders of the Interagency Annual Passes, Senior Passes and Access Passes.

More Information: The Santa Fe Trail Historic Byway Association has additional information about Bent's Old Fort and also encampments and other participation events.

The site is open daily except select holidays. Summer hours are 8:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. From September 1 through May 31, hours are 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Bent's Old Fort is 70 miles from Pueblo, 8 miles from La Junta and 15 miles from Las Animas. The official address is 35110 Highway 194 East, La Junta, CO 81050-9523; 719-383-5010.

Oberammergau? Book Now!

Bavarian village produces Passion Play every 10 years. Hurry to attend in 2010

Half a million people make a religious or theatrical pilgrimage to the Bavarian village of Oberammergau every 10 years to witness the spectacle of the renowned Passion Play that has been put once a decade for 375 years. It is an astonishing feat for a mountain hamlet of 5,200 inhabitants to put on a five-hour spectacle depicting the last days of Jesus. Nearly half of the residents are involved in some way -- on the open-air stage, in the orchestra or behind the scenes.

Something like 100 performances will be put on next year between May 15 and October 3, and if you want to attend, book now. I mean now. Yesterday, I met Mike Adams, managing director of Germany TourComm, who said that individual tickets are already sold out and that if the world economy were stronger, tickets in conjunction with tour operator-based packages would most likely be gone by now too. But the economy is weak, and tickets are still available in conjunction with a lodging package that can be as short as one night. Click here for US tour operators booking one- and two-night Passion Play packages. The Passion Play website also links to tour operators in other countries.

The Passion Play was first performed in the town cemetery in 1634. The story never changes, but the precise words, the music, the sets, the costumes and even the supporting roles have evolved over the centuries. The photo (above right) by Thomas Dashuber shows a rehearsal of the 2010 production. Thanks to Passion Play Oberammergau for its use.

Ten Top (Mostly) North American Bike Rides Cited

Tour operator selects 10 top bike rides from its tour offerings

The price of gas these days makes not driving all that much more appealing, and two pedals are looking a lot more sensible than the gas pedal. Cycling vacations in New England, in "old England" and in continental Europe have become incessantly popular ways to see the scenery at a relatively leisurely pace, economically and heathily as well. In Europe or the UK, where rain train transportation is wide-ranging for rainy days, times when travelers want to skip from place to place, or when they just need a rest day, it is quite simple to put together an independent itinerary for those with strong legs and lungs to match. In North America and elsewhere in the world, an unsupported bike trip is more of a commitment. In any case, a number of tour operators offer supported cycling trips with a ore-established itinerary, baggage transfers and a sag wagon to pick up tired riders and their bikes.

Whether you go independent or with a tour operator, if a cycling trip appeals to you, take a look at Austin-Lehman Adventures' list of 10 great bike rides linked to various of their itineraries. Austin-Lehman (800-575-1540) specializes in what it calls "adventure luxury" travel. If you're planning a fall trip, the company is offering a $300-off sale. Some of their trips might appeal as they are, and if you prefer to go on your own, the list might give you some ideas.

1. The ride down from Pine Creek into Paradise Valley - Montana Canyons, Calderas, & Cowboys Adventure
2. Bike ride to Gold Rush town of Hope, along Crow Creek - Alaska - Best of the Greatland
3. Riding the Kettle Valley Railroad - Okanagan Valley - Canada's Wine Country
4. Riding through Pemberton Valley - Whistler - British Columbia Wilderness Adventure
5. Mountain Biking from your cabin door at Mountain Home Lodge - Washington - Best of the Northwest Adventure
6. Biking Antelope Flats in the Tetons - Wyoming/Grand Teton – Valley Floors to Jagged Peaks Adventure
7. Biking Snow Canyon at the start of Bryce Zion - Utah - Bryce Zion - Red-Rock Wonders
8. Biking the trail to Maras Inca Salt Mines in Peru - Peru - Land of the Inca
9. Biking Cape Point in South Africa, the southern most point on the continent - South Africa Safari & Multisport Adventure
10. Biking the Icefields Parkway outside of Banff - Canadian Rockies - Rocky Mountain Multisport

Go Fly A Kite in 35 Countries

International festival promotes peace and sustainability -- and is all sorts of fun


I found out about the One Sky, One World festival when researching free and inexpensive activities for Mile High on the Cheap. The inspiration was the historic 1985 summit meeting of Presidents Ronald Reagan of the U.S. and Mikhail Gorbachev of the U.S.S.R. that marked a significant step toward peace between the super-powers. The spirit of that meeting inspired One Sky One World (OSOW) founder and Colorado kite maker, Jane Parker-Ambrose to create a kite commemorating this new promise of global harmony, with the flags of the U.S. and U.S.S.R. joined on the face of the kite. Halley's Comet, which revisited the Earth in 1986 for the first time in 76 years, is shown as a portent of peace. On a people-to-people visit to Moscow in the 1985, Jane presented her kite and a letter of friendship signed by some 300 kitefliers from the US, Canada, Japan and the United Kingdom to the Soviet Women's Peace Committee.

This gesture of global goodwill gave birth to the idea for One Sky One World, also known as World Kite Day and always held on the second Sunday of October. Since its inception in October 1986, hundreds of thousands of people have attended One Sky One World events in more than 30 nations. The 24th annual One Sky One World will take place on Sunday, October 11, 2009 -- and for the second time, Denver will be part with a full-day celebration at the Stapleton neighborhood's Central Park. Click here for the schedule of events. Denver joins such other cities as varied as Long Beach, Washington, Minneapolis, Montreal, Medellin and Berlin in flying kites and other kite-ly activities.

The OSOW's mission is to focus individuals and communities around the world on the needs for friendship and peace between all peoples and to protect the environment. The name of the organization expresses this theme and connotes the purpose metaphorically. One Sky One World's organizational purpose is to develop awareness of and respect for human and cultural diversity, nature and the environment at home and around the world. Details of the events in various cities differ, but they include public education in the technology of kites, art, history, and participation in age old practice of flying and building kites generates a greater sense of global community, enjoyment of nature and greater appreciation for all life on earth.

It will provide an opportunity, in these troubled times with wars, nuclear standoffs and natural disasters, for people to spend a few idealistic hours to think of a better, more peaceful world -- and to have a fun time flying kites.

Rocky Mountain National Park Images

The Date: Sunday, September 28, 2009
The Companions: My husband, Ral, and our friend Dave
The Hike: Leisurely loop from Upper Beaver Meadows trailhead; 5 to 5 1/2 miles (depending on whether the source is my husband's GPS or Dave's iPhone, which compiles the stats and also generates a map); 1,195 vertical feet
The Conditions: Warm, sunny, cloudless blue sky
The Highlights: Snow-dusted Longs Peak, golden aspens, deer and elk
The Experience: Priceless

The Right Way to End the Day: The first episode of Ken Burns' exceptional 12-hour series, "The Natonal Parks: America's Best Idea" on PBS.

Cheyenne Frontier Days Begins July 18

The rodeo, carnival and cultural fest nicknamed "the Daddy of 'Em All" starts this week

I live in the university town of Boulder, known for liberal politics, concern for the environment, political correctness and an enviable lifestyle, but the longer I've been in Colorado (going on 20 years now), the more I also appreciate the parallel universe of ranching, Western country tradition and the hard work and commitment that go with that life -- not lifestyle, but life. The annual National Western Stock Show in Denver and Cheyenne Frontier Days, coming right up in my neighboring state to the north, perpetuate and honor the skills and the traditions, and help the rest of us have a glimpse. Cheyenne Frontier Days start July 14 and run through July 27. Rodeo, entertainment, rodeo, midway, rodeo, Indian Village, rodeo, Western art show, rodeo, parades, rodeo, food and rodeo are the main attractions. The website contains a schedule and prices.

Philadephia Offers New High-Tech, Self-Guided Tour

With Ben Franklin as a guide, visitors can't go wrong in the cradle of American liberty

July 4, American Independence Day, would seem to have been the perfect date for the introduction of a new self-paced GPS Ranger tour of Philadelphia's Independence National Historical Park. But July 14, Bastille Day, isn't a bad choice either, because the French got their uppity ideas about removing themselves from under a royal yoke from the new United States. Also, Benjamin Franklin, portrayed by Philadelphia's Ralph Archibald, who hosts the tour, was a key to striking an alliance between the nascent United States of America and France. But more to the point, the 14th worked better than the Fourth of the mayor of Philadelphia, who is expected at the debut of the new tour.

The GPS Ranger is a device that "knows" the user's location based on GPS (Global Positioning System) technology. See what I mean about high-tech? This patent-pending, handheld computer then delivers the tour, including appropriate video, audio, musical soundtrack and historical photographs, to visitors. It is to those museum audio tours what high-def color television is to AM radio. However, everything happens automatically. There are no buttons to push to tell the device the visitor's exact location. I haven't used it myself, but it is said to be both entertaining and educational.

The state-of-the-art Independence Visitor Center rents the device for $15.95, which is a good deal because it can be shared by several visitors and covers the historic highlights around what has been called Philadelphia’s Most Historic Square Mile, including the Liberty Bell, National Constitution Center, Declaration House, Washington Square containing a burial ground of fallen Revolutionary War soldiers, the “Moon Tree” grown from seeds that on board a moon flight in 1971, City Tavern, Christ Church Burial Ground with the graves of five signers of the Declaration of Independence including Franklin and Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest continuously inhabited residential street in the country, dating back to the early 1700s.