Aircraft-Bird Encounters Rise

One bird strike made headlines, but many occur -- including Denver

The surprise water landing of a US Airways plane in the Hudson River last January. Investigations revealed that a major bird strike had knocked out at least one engine. All 155 passengers and crew survived, with few injuries, and Captain Chesley "Sully" Sullenberger became an instant hero, making the talk-show circuit and landing a book contract. It turns out that the very aircraft the Sullenberger ditched in the frigid Hudson,

Associated Press reporter Michael J. Sniffen has been looking into bird strikes and has unearthed some amazing figures -- ones we don't generally think about when we fasten our seatbelts low and tight about ourselves and make sure that are seats and tray tables are in their full upright positions. Sniffen reported:

"Airplane collisions with birds or other animals have destroyed 28 aircraft
since 2000, with New York's Kennedy airport and Sacramento International
reporting the most incidents with serious damage, according to Federal Aviation
Administration data posted...The FAA list of wildlife strikes, published on the
Internet, details more than 89,000 incidents since 1990, costing 11 people their
lives. Most incidents were bird strikes, but deer and other animals have been
hit on runways, too.

"The situation seems to be getting worse: Airplane collisions with birds
have more than doubled at 13 major U.S. airports since 2000, including New
Orleans, Houston's Hobby, Kansas City, Orlando and Salt Lake City. Wildlife
experts say increasingly birds, particularly large ones like Canada geese, are
finding food and living near cities and airports year round rather than
migrating.

"The figures are known to be far from complete. Even the FAA estimates its
voluntary reporting system captures only 20 percent of wildlife strikes. The
agency, however, has refused for a decade to adopt a National Transportation
Safety Board recommendation to make the reports mandatory.

"...The Federal Aviation Administration says there were about 65,000 bird
strikes to civil aircraft in the United States from 1990 to 2005, or about one
for every 10,000 flights....air traffic control towers routinely
alert pilots if there are birds in the area."

Alysia Patterson filed a Denver-specific AP report, in which she recounted that DIA "led the nation in bird and wildlife strikes last year" -- 318 during the first 11 months of 2008. Of some comfort to passengers, Patterson was told by the FAA's Mike Fergus that DIA has "an aggressive wildlife mitigation program, [and] pilots are more aware of the problem and more apt to report a strike."

Whenever I've felt a jolt when taking off from or approaching DIA, I have assumed that it was turbulence of some sort. Next time, I'll speculate (to myself, not to my seatmate) that it might be due to a bird strike.

Colorado Ski License Plate Approved

Long-anticipated snowsports license plate should be available this coming fall

A few years ago, I was one of some 4,500 Coloradans who signed a petition requesting the introduction of an optional ski/snowboard license plate. Late on Thursday, April 30, the Senate approved Bill 161 authorizing this plate (the House had already passed it), and it is now awaiting Governor Bill Ritter's signature. According to Colorado Ski Country USA, which helped organize and promote the petition effort, the plate "should be available in time for next ski season." It will cost $50 in addition to the normal fee and will carry the tagline, "Ski Country USA." I'm planning to request one.

Images like the one below tend to be pretty corny, but I post this one of the quartet of VIPs smilingly posing with the plate prototype as thanks for shepherding the bill along. The photo from the Colorado Senate Majority Press Office shows CSCUSA public policy and communications manager Ari Stiller-Shulman; bill sponsor Senator Dan Gibbs, CSCUSA President and CEO Melanie Mills, and Hertz Corporation’s Southwest fleet manager Brent Lessing. The caption that came with this photo identifies the foursome "from left to right," but there are two rows, so I don't know exactly who's who. Sorry. I am guessing that Lessing's presence means that car-rental agency will order them for its Colorado fleet. After all, the company has been promoting its "skierized" cars for years.

Denver International Airport Unveils Calatrava Addition

$650 is the current price tag for Phase I and $950 for finishing DIA's original concept

Come 2016, assuming a dramatic proposal is approved, Denver International Airport (DEN) should have what travelers to and from many (if not most) major world airports take for granted: a hotel attached to the terminal and a rail connection with the downtown core of their respective cities and, in countries with decent train service, beyond -- all wrapped up in a dramatic sweeping new-for-Denver international style designed to complement the existing main terminal topped with a little Teflon range of peak-like tents..

It's about time, considering that DIA is the 10th-busiest airport in the world and the fifth-busiest in the US. Officials have revealed the conceptual design of what will be called the South Terminal designed by superstar architect Santiago Calatrava. The rail link is to be via  RTD’s FasTracks East Corridor, which is also to be built. Calatrava's shop has designed a train station, a signature rail bridge (below) and a plaza. A 500-room hotel and conference center (probably to be branded by Westin) connected to Jeppesen Terminal is also part of the plan, which was originally part of DIA concept when the airport was still on the drawing boards some two decades ago.

The hotel, the landmark bridge and the train station, known as Phase I of the South Terminal Redevelopment Program Phase I, are estimated to cost $650 million. Phase II includes another new parking structure and renovations to the Jeppesen Terminal Great Hall, which was designed before the age of haute security with screening area clutter imposed on what was originally envisioned as an expansive, soaring futuristic space. Maybe in the process of renovating the terminal, someone will also figure out what to do with the terminal's center design element that had been a fountain of dancing waters and an indoor planter. It has been plagued by leaks and other flaws, which are inconsequential to the airport's operations but do impact on the passengers' aesthetic experiences. Phase II, if/when implemented, could cost an additional $250 million.

Calatrava has designed visually stunning and instantly recognizable structures such as the Sundial Bridge in Redding, California, the TGV Railway Station in Liège, Belgium, the new Sondica Airport terminal in Bilbao, Spain, and the Olympic Sports Complex in Athens, Greece. With Calatrava's name attached to so much of the project, the name of the hotel architect, "Gensler," kind of gets lost in the wash. It too is a global design and architecture firm.

The projected timetable is for the signature rail bridge  to be finished by early 2013, the terminal station two years later and RTD’s train itself scheduled begin carrying passengers between Denver Union Station and the airport in 2016. The 22.8-mile airport corridor is the first for RTD to use commuter rail technology, with larger and heavier cars than the existing light rail system. Click here for more information,including the project description and additional renderings.

RIP: Ski Train

Denver-Winter Park train off-track -- perhaps forever

Click here to read about my trip Riding the Ski Train to Winter Park less than a month ago. Delightful as the ride was, and much as we intending to take it more often, it most likely won't happen again. Surprisingly -- in fact, shockingly -- owner Phil Anschutz either has sold or is about to seel the Ski Train rolling stock to the Algoma Central Railway, a subsidiary of Canadian National Railway Company, that among other excursions runs the Snow Train from Sault Ste.-Marie, Ontario, into the white world of the Agawa Canyon (right).

Jim Monaghan, an Anschutz spokesman, told the Denver Post that the Canadian railroad approached them about selling Colorado Ski Train. The Anschutz organization was receptive because the logistics of running the train to with the upcoming redevelopment of Denver's Union Station were uncertain -- but the costs were certainly rising. During the Union Station makeover, there was talk about temporarily operating the train from a parking lot at Coors Field. That won't be necessary.

One of the Ski Train plans for next winter that will now no longer happen was to offer two-day packages that included a Saturday trip to winter park, an overnight stay at Winter Park and a Sunday afternoon return to Denver.

Anschutz reportedly did not sell the Ski Train name or logo to the Canadians, so there remains a possibility, slim though it might be, for the eventual return of the revered train, which began operating in 1940. No question that it will be missed.

Big Doings in Small Wine Country Town

Renewed Town Plaza to premiere in pocket-size Palisade, the unofficial capital of Grand River wine country

In Europe and in the longer established wine regions of North America, vineyards surround charming towns boasting a few lovely little inns and a handful of terrific local restaurants, cafes and bakeries. Rather than centuries or even decades old, Colorado's wine industry has mushroomed from virtually nothing to significance in just over 20 years. Of the state's two American Viticultural Areas, the Grand River AVA centers around the Town of Palisade.

Palisade is stunningly set between the signature Book Cliffs and the soaring Grand Mesa and with the Colorado River (originally called the Grand River) flowing by its doorstep. Surrounded on three sides by orchards and vineyards, it is working hard to retain its agricultural ambiance and also boosting the appeal of the town itself with much-needed visitor-pleasing amenities. The centerpiece is the renewed Town Plaza at Third and Main Streets. The dedication, which is open to the public, will be on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 at 5:00 p.m. and will include live music, food and refreshments.

Town-center improvements include more parking, landscaping, railroad buffering and most importantly, an inviting public gathering place for festivals, events, markets, or just meeting friends. The one-acre Plaza features new trees, shrubs, 15 planting beds, a two-tiered seating wall with a sandstone veneer and improved lighting and electrical service. The Plaza also is the venue for local artist Lyle Nichols's sculpture “Harley,” to be unveiled May 10, 2009. Eventually, a town clock will be located nearby, thanks to the generosity of the Palisade Lions Club.

Palisade has several appealing bed-and-breakfast inns (A DiVine Thyme, Dreamcatcher, Palisade Wine Valley Inn, The Orchard House and Vistas & Vineyards), an unremarkable motel (the Mesa View) and since last summer, a sizable inn set in the middle of vineyards. The 80-room Colorado Wine Country Inn has more rooms than all the B&B's combined and provides in-town lodging for visitors attending the town's myriad special events (see below) or creating their own special events (weddings being a specialty).

Among the upcoming events on the Palisade calendar are the Peach Blossom Art Show (next weekend, April 17-19), the Grand Valley Winery Association's Spring Barrel Tastings (April 25-26 and Mary 16-17), the Palisade Bike Festival (bicycles, not motorcycles, May 8-10), Palisade Bluegrass & Roots Music Festival (June 23-13), Parade of Roses (May 30-31), the 41st annual Palisade Peach Festival (August 13-16), Ravenshire Renissance & Pirate Faire (August 21-23) and the Colorado Mountain Winefest (September 17-20). For Coloradans and visitors alike, Palisade is easy to reach. It's right off I-70 and railroad tracks run right through town. Amtrak trains, of course, do not stop in Palisade (the old depot now houses the Peach Street Distillers, which makes vodka and Colorado's first bourbon in the middle of wine country), but the California Zephyr does serve Grand Junction, just a dozen miles away.

Palisade has scenery that won't quit, vineyards and wineries, orchards and fruit stands, a handful of neat shops, galleries and eateries, places to stay, easy access and terrific festivials other special events. All it needs now, IMO, is a few more really good restaurants -- and locals and visitors to patronize them.

Spring= Bargains Now and Next Ski Season

Long days, corn snow, sunshine and early-purchase savings on 2009-10 season passes

As reliably as the swallows returning to Capistrano, come spring equinox, ski country values roll in. Here are some of Colorado's best April values -- but resorts elsewhere in the Rockies, on the East and West Coasts and in the Alps also offer late-season specials. Over the last couple of days, Colorado resorts have gotten 10 +/- inches of snow, so spring values might be buying winter conditions and/or you'll plug into the must fun apres-ski of the entire season.

2009-10 Season Pass Pre-Purchase

Vail Resorts’ successful Epic Season Pass is back for its second season with a return to the 2008-09 introductory price. Next season again, unrestricted skiing and snowboarding (i.e., no blackout dates) at six ski areas costs just $579 for adults and $279 for children aged 5-12. The Epic Pass is good at all five Vail Resorts (Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Heavenly), plus Arapahoe Basin with its long, long ski season. A modest $49 down-payment made on-line before April 9 locks in this price and also is good toward some great lodging deals and added values at Vail for the end of this season. The balance, due in mid-September, will be charged to the same credit card as the down-payment. The pass is non-refundable and non-transferable.

The 2009-10 Rocky Mountain Super Pass Plus good all season long at Copper Mountain, Steamboat and Winter Park is on sale for $399 per adult, $40 less than last year. The price for teens (13-17) is $309; kids (6-12 ) are $209, and seniors (70-plus) pay $239. Click here to purchase your pass on-line now, or buy at any Christy Sports location along the Front Range. Current pass-holders can simply reactivate their existing passes for next season, and new purchasers can upload a jpg head shot that will be used for the pass. A $49 deposit is required by June 1 (or when the limited quantity is reached) with the balance due in mid-September. The pass is good for unlimited skiing and riding at Winter Park and Copper Mountain, plus six days at Steamboat with free skiing on Fridays after 12:30 p.m. for weekend skiing Front Rangers. Copper and Winter Park also offer passholders up to 10 discounted one-day lift tickets for friends or family redeemable at the ticket windows; discounts on resort food and beverage sales; equipment sales or rentals, and ski and ride lessons. Everyone gets a one-year subscription to Skiing magazine.

Crested Butte's ski season ends on April 5 -- and so do its early-buy discounts for season passes or multi-day Mountain Cards for 2009-10, still offered at 2008-09 prices. Click here to see the choice of full passes and multi-day cards. The next wave of discounts is in effect from June 1 through September 7, when full prices kick in. It's not clear what happens when someone wishes to buy a 2009-10 season pass or Mountain Card between April 6 and May 31.

Purchase a 2009-10 season pass at Eldora by April 30 ski/ride free for the rest of the season, which ends April 12. Prices are adult, $359 renewal ($369 new); junior, ages 13-17 $239 renewal ($259 new); child, ages 6-12 $159 renewal ($179 new); and preschoolers 5 and under ski all season for $75 and seniors 75 and older do so for $89. For younger seniors, ages 65-74, the pass is $219 renewal ($229, new). Midweek pass $250 renewal ($279 new). The senior midweek pass $89. A family season pass is $839 renewal ($889). By at Eldora Mountain Sports 2775 Canyon Boulevard, at season pass office at the mountain, by phone (303-440-8700) or online.

Arapahoe Basin (photo, above right) has rolled back 2009-10 season passes to 2007 prices. Passes are available through April 30 with a $49 deposit now (balance due in September). The A-Basin Only Season Pass is for $279 for ages 20-69, $189 for ages 15-19 and $109 for ages 6-14) is selling for $109. These passes are also valid for the remainder of the 2008-09 season as well as the entire 2009-10 season with no black out dates. The Arapahoe Basin Bonus Pass, now on sale for $339 for adults (ages 15+) and $249 for children (ages 6-14), is good for unlimited skiing/riding at A-Basin during the remainder of the 2008-09 season and all of 2009-10 season, plus five non-transferable days at Keystone or Breckenridge with one of those five days at Vail or Beaver Creek (some date restrictions apply). Pass holders also receive one $25 half-day class lesson, 10 percent off food (except at the 6th Alley bar), 10 percent off on purchases at Arapahoe Sports and Black Mountain Sports, five days of skiing at Bear Valley in California, one unguided day of skiing at Silverton Mountain, friends and family A-Basin lift ticket discounts, and $10 off performance tunes in the Base’n Edge Tune Shop.

Echo Mountain with its 600-foot vertical, proximity to Denver/Jeffco and special appeal to young skiers and riders is operating until May 3. Super-cheap 2009-10 season passes are on sale now for just $139 for unlimited skiing/riding without black-out dates. For new passes, add $50 to ski/ride for the rest of this season through May 3. Buy at the Echo Mountain Lodge or online. Passes are non-refundable.

Monarch Mountain is offering its 2009-10 season passes at early season prices through July 3. The multi-tier pricing is adult (16 to 61), $289; students (13 to 15), $159; junior (7 to 12), $89, senior (62-68), $159, and children (under 7) and seniors (over 68) free. Buy on-line by clicking here or by calling 719-530-5105. In addition to unlimited skiing and riding Monarch, all season passes include three free days of skiing at Loveland, Durango, Powderhorn, Sunlight, Angel Fire and Pajarito; one day of complimentary un-guided skiing at Silverton, and half-price tickets all season at Alta, Utah.

Purgatory's 2009-10 passes hold at the 2008-09 prices (adult, $539; student 13-18, $289; college with 9 credit hours or more, $349; kids 6-12, $239; kid with parent, $129; "silver," 62-69, $339, plus an array of flex and midweek offers). Benefits include Durango Mountain Resort summer activities (Alpine Slide, scenic chairlift, etc.), one $52 Friends & Family ticket per day; three non-holiday days at Taos; three days at Monarch; 10 days at Kirkwood, California, half-price non-holiday tickets at Crested Butte; 30 percent off at Arizona Snowbowl; 20 cent off group lessons at Ski and Ride School; 15 percent off at Durango Mountain Resort retail outlets and 10 percent off DMR food and beverage (excludes alcohol). If there's an end date to this pricing, it's not evident.

Spring Skiing Specials

At Colorado’s unofficial spring skiing capital, Arapahoe Basin's A+ Spring Pass ($279 per adult, $699 for a family of four) is valid for unlimited skiing and riding at A-Basin for the remainder of the season, which generally lasts into June. It is also good for five days at Keystone or Breckenridge — and one of those can be used, with some date restrictions, at Vail or Beaver Creek. Additional benefits include a free half-day lesson, discounted friend and family tickets and a 10 percent discount on cafeteria and retail purchases. Those who plan to ski only at A-Basin can purchase Spring Passes at $209 per adult, $159 for ages 15 to 18, and $99 for ages six to 14. Under six, free — as always.

Aspen is extending the season and operating Aspen Highlands lifts from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. for two additional weekends, April 18-19 and April 25-26. Adult lift tickets will be $39 per day, youth and seniors will pay $29 and children's tickets will be $19. Six and under, free. Current season passholders from any other resort in the U.S. will pay just $19 for their lift ticket.

During the post-Easter Breckenridge for a Buck, buy three days and nights at Breckenridge and get your fourth day and night for a dollar. It is in effect for the nights of April 12 - 19.

Copper Mountain offers “The Deal,” $219 for four one-day lift tickets good as long as there’s snow and the lifts are running. Divvy up those four days any way you want: four days on your own, two days with a friend or one day with three friends. It’ simple, straightforward, flexible and an excellent value. The season is scheduled to continue through April 19. Also, Sunsation lodging at the resort starts at $55 per person, per night; 866-534-7444. Combine it with The Deal and you've literally got yourself a deal!

Haul the family to Echo Mountain for an afternoon of skiing or riding and eating without breaking the bank. The Fours for Spring package costs just $99 for four afternoon lift tickets, four sodas or milks, four slices of pizza, four bags of chips and four cookies or brownies. If anyone needs instruction, add a group lesson at $29 per person.

Loveland is operating until May 3 this year. Buy discounted lift tickets ($48 for ages 15 and over, $22 for 14 and younger, 5 and under ski free) at dozens of Front Range locations. Click here for specifics.

Keystone’s new $99 spring lift ticket is good for three days of skiing until April 12 at Keystone and/or Arapahoe Basin. And if you can’t dedicate three days to skiing or riding, head for Keystone on Thursday, April 9, and enjoy a single day on the slopes for $33. Another $12 will buy you a mid-day pig roast base at LaBonte’s Cabin at the base of North Peak. That's just a couple of bucks more than the price of a mediocre little pizza most of the season!

Optional unguided skiing returns to the steeps of Silverton Mountain on April 3-5, 11-12 and 18-19. Prices are $49 all-day unguided; $99 per person for all-day guide including unguided lift ticket, and $35 for single guided run (lift ticket additional). Rentals including mandatory avalanche gear are available.

Steamboat's three-day or longer Springalicious packages though April 12 include free skiing when staying three-nights or longer. Book through Steamboat Central Reservations. If you just want a lift ticket, three days of skiing cost $99.

Telluride has extended the season through April 12. All the terrain off the locals’ favorite Plunge and Coonskin lifts will be open, as will the gate near patrol headquarters at the top of the Plunge Lift to access the USFS backcountry gate at the top of Gold Hill. Hiking access will be along the See Forever trail only. Lifts will operate from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Non-pass holders will find adult ticket prices reduced to $50, with senior and child tickets for $25. Additionally, $25 tickets will be offered to season pass holders or employees from any other ski resort in North America.

Book two nights' April lodging specials at Winter Park starting at $35 per person, per night and the second night is 50 percent off, through April 19 ($26 per person at the Gasthaus Eichler through April 12).

Wolf Creek is re-opening Saturday and Sunday, April 11-12, for "Local Appreciation Weekend" with $31 adult and $18 child/senior lift tickets, no ID required. Of course, all Wolf Creek season passes will be honored too. The Horseshoe Bowl Snowcat Shuttle will be running both days depending on conditions, and the Easter Bunny will visit Wolf Creek on Sunday the 12th to celebrate Easter. An Easter Egg Hunt at Wolf Pup Hollow at 12:30 p.m. will be open to children ages 8 and under with a valid lift ticket.

Travel Thumbnail: The Ski Train to Winter Park

This is the fourth of a series of periodic reports on specific places I've visited -- and which you might want see to as well. Post a comment or let me know directly what you think of this occasional Travel Babel feature.

Iconic Colorado experience: Denver to Winter Park on the Train

The Place: Rio Grande Ski Train to Winter Park

The Story: Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, the Ski Train was dominated by the Eskimo Ski Club, whose members ranged in age from seven to 17 and who took the train every Saturday in winter to ski at Winter Park. Today, many older Denver natives credit the Ski Train, Winter Park and the Eskimo Ski Club for making skiing an enduring part of their lives. Since the '80s, Ansco Investment Company has owned the Ski Train and renewed it with upgraded rolling stock and experiences.

This past weekend, the Rio Grande Ski Train from Denver's Union Station to the base of the slopes concluded its 2009-10 season of 82 trips. A Colorado tradition for three generations, it is the last dedicated regular ski train service in the lower 48 (the Alaska Railroad operates ski train service too). If there's no traffic on I-70 or snaking over Berthoud Pass, driving is unquestionably faster. But the Ski Train isn't about speed. It's all about experience. It is a nostalgic journey for former Eskimo Ski Clubbers and a singular one for today's families who bring their kids so that they can experience train travel too, perhaps once every season or two. And riding the rails from downtown Denver is a great way for visitors and convention-goers to reach a snowy environment through beautiful scenery and the 6 1/2-mile Moffat Tunnel under the Continental Divide.

My Trip

The train is supposed to depart from Union Station at 7:15 a.m., but ours was delayed because we had to wait for Amtrak to pull in. Once we got going, we slowly traveled through railyards in north Denver and then through sections of suburbs like Arvada that we rarely see.

It had snowed a lot on Thursday, and the far western edge of the plains between Golden and Rocky Flats were still carpeted in white. Looking out the train window toward the north, it was difficult to recogize this as the edge of the Denver sprawl.

The tracks climb through Eldorado Canyon past open space and Eldorado Canyon State Park.

The train continues toward the Moffat Tunnel via Coal Creek Canyon, Rollinsville and Tolland to East Portal, the tunnel's eastern entrance.

Passengers have about 10 minutes to disembark at Winter Park before the train continues to Granby to turn around and park on a siding for the day until 4:15 departure time. Most people come to Winter Park to ski or snowboard, but some just want the railroad experience with perhaps a snowcoach sightseeing tour of the mountain or perhaps a free bus ride into town to shop and have lunch.

This weekend felt like winter, not spring. The snow was abundant and wonderful.

Even with a high-speed chairlift ferrying skiers to Winter Park's highest point, Parsenn Bowl didn't look or feel crowded. The snow was soft and the views toward the Indian Peaks Wilderness, Rocky Mountain National Park and the Never Summer Wilderness were awesome.

The Cost: This past season, roundtrip coach fares were $59 per adult ($49 for ages three to 12 or 62-plus); club seating was $85 per person. All seats in both classes of service are by reservation. Food service is available, and discounted lift tickets can be purchased on board. The train and the resort experimented with weekend overnight packages (leaving Denver on Saturday morning and returning on Sunday evening). This will probably continue as a full-season offer next winter.

Royal Gorge Train a Real Treat

Vintage train cars ride the rails through a deep canyon carved by the Arkansas River

There's a lot of history to the rail line through an Arkansas River canyon northwest of Cañon City. In the 1870s, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad and the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe fought a literally and figurative turf war over which line would build a line along the river. The battle reached the Supreme Court, and the Denver and Rio Grande won. At one time, the busy line connected Pueblo's magnificent railroad terminal, Salida and Leadville's high-elevation station and eentually beyond to Minturn. Now, the Royal Gorge Route train uses a relatively few miles of trackage to take tourists through the Arkansas River's most dramatic canyon, but it does so in vintage style.

Coach class, open-air cars where passengers stand and swivel for ever-changing views, Vista Dome cars with lunch, dinner or wine dinner service, murder mystery trains, rail/raft packages combining a train ride upstream and a raft trip back downriver, Santa Express trains and even the opportunity to ride in the cab with the engineer are Royal Gorge options. The rail company commissioned Idaho artist Ward Hooper to create a special, limited edition poster (above left) in a retro style to match the cars and recently hired Donald Burns as executive chef. We took what amounted to a twilight "hors d'oeuvre train" to introduce both the graphic artist and the culinary artist to the media.

Among other credentials, Burns was corporate chef for the luxurious American Orient Express, and he has brought his culinary touch to the Royal Gorge route. The excellent small plates served to the media are not on the regular menu, but the route and the scenery are the same, no matter which class of service. A cute little depot with ticket office and extensive gift shop is the train's home port.

The train pulls our of the station and heads westward, paralleling the river, and soon passes the outskirts of Cañon City. The Arkansas is running really fast these days from high-country snowmelt. Even the flatwater was high, lapping over its customary banks. Our tablemates are Pueblo locals whose son works for a raft company. He told them that the swift current had been turning their "family float" trip into a fast float . 

Soon the valley closes in and the train enters the area of rock slopes and later steep cliffs, pinching down the river into raging whitewater. Authorities are warning even experienced rafters and kayakers off many Colorado rivers until they calm down, but looking down from the train was both exciting and disquieting, because running water like this can be really dangerous.  

The railroad could collect tickets at the boarding gate, airline-style, but it retains the traditional flavor with a uniformed conductor checking them on the train. He's probably making sure that coach ticket holders haven't upgraded themselves into the dome card, but he does so subtly and with a broad smile.

Artifacts along the banks include remaining sections of redwood pipe that once brought gravity-fed water to thirsty Cañon City.

We stopped for quite some time at the narrowest part of the canyon, with the Royal Gorge Bridge -- the world's high suspension bridge -- resembling nothing more substantial than a tightrope a thousand feet above the water surface.

As the train returned to Cañon City, the setting sun slotted into the canyon and made the water glow with reflected evening light.  

 

Royal Gorge Route, 401 Water Street, Cañon City; 888-RAILS-4U or 719-276-4000.

Celebration Time at Bent's Fort

The Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site celebrates its 50th Anniversary as a unit of the National Park System

The original Bent's Fort, an abobe landmark on the Santa Fe Trail near the present town of La Junta, was built in the 1840s, and for 16 years was the only permanent settlement between Missouri and what was then Mexico (now New Mexico). A monument was erected in 1912 to mark the site, the fort itself was reconstructed for the US Bicentennial in 1976 and it was designated as the Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site half a century ago.

This was a weekend of re-enactments, programs from leading historians, stagecoach rides, a trapper’s camp and a movie retrospective and more. The historians told the story of the fort and its establishment as a national park. Presenters included Merrill Eisenhower Atwater, great-grandson of President Dwight Eisenhower who signed the bill establishing the park; Cathy Smith, award-winning costume designer for “Dances With Wolves,” “Geronimo” and “Buffalo Gals;” Mark Gardner, author, historian and musician from Cascade, Colorado; Lawrence Hart, Cheyenne Peace Chief and Executive Director of the Cheyenne Cultural Center in Clinton, Oklahoma; and Dr. David Sandoval, specialist in the history of the Southwest from Colorado State University at Pueblo.

My husband and I visited the fort a couple of years ago (click here for my report), and if this had not been the Saturday of my neigborhood's annual, I would have wanted to be at Bent's Old Fort  this weekend to, especially on Saturday evening, for a 50th Anniversary Banquet and an authentic 1840s fandango with music and dance instruction by Dr. Lorenzo Trujillo and the Southwest Musicians.

The party might be over, but the fascination of Bent's Old Fort continues with wonderful interpretative activities all summer long. If you're traveling through southern Colorado, don't miss it. Bent's Old Fort is 70 miles from Pueblo, 8 miles from La Junta and 15 miles from Las Animas. The official address is 35110 Highway 194 East, La Junta, CO 81050-9523; 719-383-5010.

Aspen Area Hotels at the Base of the Slopes and the Peak of Design

Sky in Aspen and the Viceroy in Snowmass display high style

Just 24 hours in the Aspen area gave the the opportunity to stay at the  super-cool Sky Hotel at the base of Aspen Mountain and attend a reception at another, newer Viceroy Hotel at the base of Snowmass. I'd been to events and had drinks at the Sky before but never stayed there, and I had a hardhat tour of the Viceroy last summer and popped in quickly to look at the lobby last December but never spent any time there. Both of these hotels abound with imaginative design and high style.

Sky Hotel

The Sky Hotel at the foot of Aspen Mountain is famous around town 39 Degrees, its swank, sophisticated lounge, great cocktails, light bites and desserts, huge fireplace and comfy couches and chairs, making it a popular après-ski spot. It's quieter in the summer (at least at the beginning of the summer season), and I didn't have time to linger in the lounge or the adjacent patio. Instead, I checked in for one night and headed straight for my third-floor room before I had to zip out again for a meeting.

The mattress was comfortable, the pillows abundant and the bed linens smooth.

Nice work area with well-lit desk, plenty of outlets, a comfortable swivel chair and a retro ski-fashion poster to gaze at.

Nothing unusual about the small bathroom's standard layout -- tub/shower on one wall, sink and vanity on the other and toilet between them opposite from the door. But quality amenities, more good lighting and soft towels are really what count.

Plush animal-print bathrobes and slippers (complete with price tag to underscore that they are available for purchase) are part of the Sky Hotel's cool factor.

Instead of a mini-bar, there's clear drawer to tempt guests with snacks. I wasn't tempted, because I was heading for a that cocktail reception at the Viceroy. And then, I checked out the next morning.

Viceroy Hotel

When I was in the Aspen area last summer, I was given a hardhat tour of the Viceroy Hotel in Snowmass' new Base Village development. The hotel was to be completed in time for the 2009-10 ski season. And it was. Without a camera, I nevertheless took a quick look at the lobby in December.

A group meeting in Aspen last week held a cocktail reception at this new hotel that has set a new standard for Snowmass Village. In winter, its location at the bottom of the Snowmass ski runs makes it a busy place. On a weeknight before Memorial Day weekend, our group had the place virtually to ourselves for a terrific cocktail party with great drinks, bubbly, wine and beer and first-rate hors d'oeuvres. It was crowded and excessively noisy, as these events inevitably are, so I took only few pictures when I could grab a clear shot of something.

Don't let the one person sitting on a banquette near the front entrance give you the impression that it was uncrowded or quiet in the adjacent spaces. The back wall is a line of aspen trunks upon which the initials of the organization partying there were projected.

Well-stocked and well-lit back bar. The front bar starts in the lobby and continues into the lounge, an interesting, seamless design.

The glass-walled wine storage unit serves as a room divider.

The catering staff put on a splendid spread, but I arrived too late to shoot most of the food before it got picked over and was no longer pretty. It was very food, however, with small pizzas, salads, Mexican items, sushi, a carving station and more -- something for everyone.Below is a cheese selection, and below that is the dessert table.

With a sampling like this, I hope to get back to the Viceroy and get a feel for what it's really like when there are overnight guests and no big private party occupying the lobby level. From the website's home page, click on "Photo Gallery" for the hotel's fine images of its public spaces and accommodations.

Carousel of Happiness Turning in Nederland

Laid-back mountain town's great new attraction is worth a visit

Nederland, just 17 miles west of Boulder, retains a reputation for being a hippie town. Yesterday its new era as a happy town began when the Carousel of Happiness started to turn, the calliope started to play and the face of the community broke into a smile. Yesterday's grand opening brought praise for carousel creator Scott Harrison from national and Colorado carousel aficionado's organization officers and from the mayor, and from Harrison for all the individuals, foundations and local businesses whose generosity enabled him to finish a 25-year project. 

The backstory is fantastic. In 1985, Scott Harrison, a Nederland resident, began carving and handpainting carousel animals, and a year later, bought and set about restoring the workings of an old merry-go-round that long ago graced the Saltair amusement park near Salt Lake City. Since then, with determination, inspiration and idealism, Harrison kept carving and painting animals, restoring the mechanism, and building an energy-smart, 12-sided structure to house it. Over the years, Harrison’s dream became Nederland’s dream. A cadre of dedicated local volunteers joined him to help the project along, investing sweat both equity and financial support.

Why a carousel? When Harrison was in Vietnam with the Marine Corps in Vietnam, his sister sent him small music box that played Chopin. It had a clear side so that the mechanism was visible while the music played. Coming back from patrols, the mechanism and the music were an antidote to what he had seen. The Vietnam vet has since sought to make the world a more peaceful place. In 1975, against all odds, he and his wife, Ellen Moore, founded and co-directed Amnesty International’s Urgent Action Network to respond to genocides and other human crises around the globe. It now has tens of thousands of members worldwide.

His efforts are now more community-focused. Nederland artist George Blevins, whose angels decorate the carousel house, says of his friend’s upbeat project, “The carousel is one more insane dream in a crazy world. Now let’s finish this and do world peace.”

When my husband and I attended a fundraiser foe the carousel, he bought $20 worth of raffle tickets and won a coveted first ride. With warm childhood memories of Connecticut carousels, I invoked spousal privilege and asked for the first ride. Here I am, in the blue cap, waiting for the first tide to commence.

The day made for one warm, wonderful party, with free entertainment by a local marimba band and free Italian sausages, hot dogs and popcorn. A Native American group came to chant, drum, dance and celebrate with Scott Harrison. Hundreds of people gathered around, greeting old friends and making new ones -- and drinking in the atmosphere of this handsome carousel and the grand opening festivities when west side of the Caribous Shopping Center, where the carousel is located, was turned into one big party area..

The Carousel of Happiness operates daily during the warm months, and sequestered in a well insulated, energy-efficient carousel house, it will operate in winter too -- at least on some/most weekends and holidays. Rides are just $1. Don't miss the great gift shop either.

Affordable Aspen

You can spend a lot or a little in Colorado's most glamorous resort town

I just returned from a couple of days in Aspen, the first time in several years during the non-snow season. As I wandered around town, which is pretty quiet until Food and Wine Classic in Aspen rolls in during the third weekend in June, I was struck by the contrast between how much luxury is available and how many options there are for a very affordable visit. Locals and visitors alike have more options than the stereotype would lead people to believe.

Getting Around

Some people drive around in the town's many Cadillac SUVs, Lincoln Navigators, Audis and BMWs.

Others use the exemplary RFTA public bus and van service with free or cheap transportation around town and down-valley.

Still others use two wheelers -- motorized and otherwise. Downtown Aspen has designated parking spaces for motorcycles and scooters.

Dining Out

Some of the most elegant and/or stylish restaurants, best chefs, most attentive waitstaffs and priciest menus can be found in Aspen.

But so can informal and reasonable bakeries, cafes and even a few remaining hole-in-the-wall restaurants, as well as the famous Popcorn Wagon, permamently parked at the corner of Hyman and Hunter.

Shopping

Dior and Gucci are right next door to each other on Galena Street.

Across the street is The Gap.

 

And  around the corner are fantastic consignment shops with designer and brand-name clothing for a song. It helps to be a size 6 or less.

Lodging

I don't even have to do a compare-and-contrast visual here. Off-season lodging prices are ridiculously low in the off-season to begin with, and through October 31, the Perfect Summer promotion gives you a third night free when you book two nights -- or a fourth night free when you book three. In addition, you'll get a Perfect Summer Pass for deals on arts and cultural events, outdoor adventures, dining and nightlife and spas for Aspen/Snowmass style pampering. A page on the website lists current specials in Aspen and nearby Snowmass. Book through Stay Aspen/Snowmass by calling 888-649-5982 or Emailing info@stayaspensnowmass.com.

Family Activities

I can't think of a much better family deal than an all-day $59 ticket for two adults and two youngsters to ride the Silver Queen gondola to the top of Aspen Mountain, an ideal place for a family hike on a high peak and a picnic. Some activities do carry an additional charge, but there are also free ones. The free mountaintop obstacle course course is full of natural and man-made obstacles like logs, rope swings, cargo netting and more that is fun and challenging for the whole family. Also free and a whole lot of fun is the silver mine sandbox where kids can go back in time to the turn of the century and Aspen's silver mining history. Dig in the silver mining sandbox to uncover silver nuggets of all shapes and sizes. They can take small silver nuggets as a souvenir. All of these free activities operate daily from June 18 to September 6.  You must buy family day tickets must in person at the Aspen Mountain ticket kiosk.

Additional free kids' activities on Aspen Mountain are offered on a weekly rotating schedule: the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies live animal program, Mondays, 11:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m.; the Jammin' Jim show and juggling workshop, Tuesdays and Thursdays, 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.; and storytelling, Wednesdays, 11:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. And for folks who love bluegrass, there are free concerts with various local and national groups on Saturdays and Sundays, 12:00 noon to 3:00 p.m.

Have fun!