Thoughts About Travel Safety

Well-traveled American septuagenarian traveled to Iraq without incident

When I was heading for Egypt a few months ago, a number of people asked whether I was "afraid" or "nervous" about visiting the Middle East. My response was, "No." After I returned, people were happy that I had a "safe" trip. Several weeks later, when an explosion in Cairo rocked a popular tourist area, the questions and expressions of relief that my trip was uneventful continued. Click here for my post after I heard about the blast.

I would still return to Egypt in a heartbeat, and I am encouraged when other people aren't scared into staying home. Therefore, I was cheered to read "Travelers, Your Tour Bus for Basra is Boarding" in today's New York Times. Reporter Campbell Robertson wrote about 79-year-old Mary Rawlins Gilbert from Menlo Park California, who joined a 17-day group tour of Iraq by "mostly middle-aged and older, that has the honor of being on the first officially sanctioned tour of Westerners in Iraq since 2003 (outside of the much safer enclave of Kurdistan). The guide is Geoff Hann, 70, the owner of Hinterland Travel, a 'specialist adventure travel company' based in England." Hann is also the co-author of a guidebook called Iraq Then and Now and is presumably very knowledgeable and realistic about travel to this country. (Ignore that "Click to Look Inside," which came with the upload from amazon.com. You'll have to find the book there to preview it online.)

Robertson's report continued, "The trip has not been nearly as perilous as most expected. On Friday night — six years after the American invasion began — a white-haired British man and woman bought big bottles of cold Heineken in central Baghdad, walking home in the dark. The Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, which helped arrange the tour, had provided armed guards for the trip, but Mr. Hann said they were too restrictive. So the group had driven around, in a minibus, with little or no security."

It seems as if Iraq might be taking a page from Egypt's tourism playbook by linking tourism and antiquities under one jurisdiction. Egypt's Tourism and Antiquities Police also guard the ancient sites and assigned an armed security officer to accompany every tourist bus. At many destinations, they were joined by a uniformed local police officer or two (right), and plainclothes security personnel seem to be everywhere too. I don't know whether this show of force is meant as reassurance to nervous travelers, as a deterrent or both, but I never felt a pang about being there.

Meanwhile, US and European shopping malls, convenience stores and even schools and universities have been the sites of all too many random, murderous rampages. Drug cartel violence has hit Mexican border towns hard, but Mexicans and not visitors have suffered, and the problems have not spread to popular tourist destinations or states to the south. Yet many people tend to be more fearful of violence in other countries, especially in the Middle East and now Mexico, than of our own shores.

Palestine: Day 5, Part 2: Jericho and the Dead Sea

Jericho and the Dead Sea: Palestine's hot pocket

When it comes to records, an area of desert and water where the jurisdictions of the Palestinian Authority, Israel and Jordan meet, can lay claim to two impressive records. The Dead Sea is the lowest spot on earth, and Jericho claims to be the oldest city on the planet.

Jericho

Before this day, I had never heard of the Umayyad people, let alone of Caliph Hisham bin AbdulMalek, whose empire stretched from the Pyrenees to India some 14 centuries ago. His palace (actually, a hunting lodge) just north of Jericho was destroyed, not by a marching army like Jericho's city walls, but by an earthquake. Today, extensive palace ruins contain pillars, walls, mosaics and the stone frame of one lovely reassembled intricatedly carved hexagonal window that is said to have inspired rose windows in French cathedrals. A small museum holds artifacts unearthed at the site.

Jericho Resort Village, where we had lunch, is a luxury property by any standard -- at least judging from the immaculate lobby with.polished stone and gleaming woodwork. Simon Awad of the Environmental Education Centre gave a presentation about threats to wildlife in Palestine, where he said that 537 bird species, 110 mammals and 2,953 plant species have been recorded -- not really surprising  since it lies at the junction of Africa, Asia and Europe. It is a migration corridor for some 500 birds and habitat to indigenous species and winter visitors. Habitat is continually threatened by dwindling water flow in the Jordan River Valley and Israel's practice of burning bushes that provide food and protection for the birds in the name of security.

It is therefore not surprising that environmental awareness is not a Palestinian priority. EEC is seeking to correct that with awareness-raising among Palestinians, youth education, community activities and hopefully  a growth in eco-tourism. Symbolic of the political problems that impact the environment is that when Israel sought to designate the Palestine sunbird (Cinnyris osea) as its national bird, it had to be pointed out that it was already the official bird of Palestine.Both have issued stamps depicting this lovely little bird. It seems that Israel wants everything that would be Palestine's: as much of its land as it can pepper with settlements, control of its water, control of the Palestinian people to move about their land -- and now, their national bird.

Lunch was served in a large swimming-pool-view dining room, where a formal white-draped U-shaped table had been set up as if for a wedding party. The salads, as the regular array of dips, spreads and cold vegetables are called, were followed by two imposing pilafs, one with eggplant and one with cauliflower plus chicken or lamb.

In the afternoon, we toured the excavations of ancient Jericho (aka, Tell es-Sultan, below) located in a spring-fed oasis in the desert. Archeologists have found remains of 23 civilizations and date the original settlement to about 9,000 B.C., and the modern city has decided to celebrate its 10,000th anniversary this October -- specifically on 10/10/10. Plans are vague at best, but such calender symmetry won't come along for another century. Successive civilizations have inhabited this low-lying oasis 1,200 feet below sea level. Common references include the Biblical reference to its habitation by ancient Israelites after wandering around the desert for 40 years, Marc Antony gifting it to Cleopatra and modern Israel's capture of the city from Jordan during the Six-Day War of 1967. To the archeologically unschooled eye, the ruins don't tell much of a story, so the many interpretive signs are useful. I just wish I'd had time to read more of them -- despite the heat.

We went for a dip in the Dead Sea, stopping en route to Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in the winter of 1946-47 by two Bedouins. I can't tell you the name of the facility that we used for our dip into the saltiest, lowest-elevation lake on earth, but it included a shaded lawn, changing rooms, indoor and outdoor showers, snack bar and wooden pier leading out to the warm salty, mineral-laden water. It's a kick to just float in this remarkable sea, but I was mindful of the terrible degradation it has suffered.

With less Jordan River water to replenish it, the sea has shrunk. The water level has reportedly been dropping three feet  per year and also shrinking in surface area, causing sinkholes to appear along its banks. Mining and extractive uses, ssewage and effluent from fish farms further degrade the lake. While Dead Sea water and mud have therapeutic effects, there's nothing healthy about the crud now allowed to flow into it. Since it is located between Israeli, Palestinian and Jordanian controlled land, there seem to be no immediate prospects for mitigating the environmental problems.
For dinner, we rode six-passenger gondola cars (here called a cable car) from a bottom station next to the old Jericho archaeological site to a stony shelf high on Mt. Temptation, where Jesus is said to have fasted for 40 days and 40 nights and been tempted by the Devil. We didn't fast but feasted on the terrace of a multi-level restaurant, cafe and row of small shops set into caves in the cliff. And did I mention the outstanding views of the valley below? A monastery also occupies the shelf, but it was not open when we arrived. We watched the sunset and the full or nearly-full moon rise.

 We overnighted at the InterContinental Jericho, the best hotel of the entire trip -- including the InterContinental Bethlehem where we stayed at the beginning. Stunning woodwork, attractive public spaces and really nice guest rooms made this a traveler's oasis in a geographic oasis. Oh, to have a half-day of down-time there!

Next stop: Jerusalem.

Palestine: Day 5, Part 1: Galilee, Jordan River Valley and Jericho

From the lush Galilee to the parched Negev Desert

After the blinding light and barenness of the desert, Galilee green soothes the eyes and lifts the spirit. Much of the water that drains out of the south end of the lake and used to replendish the Jordan River's flow is now diverted for irrigation, causing the Dead Sea's level to drop.

Sea of Galilee
Galilee is the name of a huge lake and lush agricultural area in northern Israel and Palestine. It and the Jordan River Valley are the two nation's breadbaskets. Olive trees grow in dry, rocky soil, but just about everything else needs water and therefore grows in the Galilee. Christian pilgrims head for the Church of Beatitudes, an octagonal church set amid beautifully landscaped grounds on the north end of the lake. This enchanting locale was were Jesus is said to have given the Sermon on the Mount, Nearby, in the fishing village of Cana, he performed the Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.

The Jordan River Valley and Jericho

Continuing south and paralleling the river, we passed into territory controlled by the Palestinian Authority. The farms looked ever rougher and less sophisticated. Eventually we entered the desert (below) and later drove up and over a sandy hill and here was the oasis where Jericho is located. It lays claim to being the oldest city on earth. It intends to celebrate its 10,000th anniversary on 10/10/2010, a clever date. No plans are in place yet, however, so it might come off --- and maybe not. Jericho is the lowest city in elevation on the planet. We experienced searing desert heat at 1,200 feet below sea level on a sunny day in almost-July.

As always, stay tuned for more.

RIP: Hawaii Superferry

Hawaii Supreme Court decision scuttles high-speed, interisland ferry service

I cheered when I first heard about the Hawaii Superferry. It promised fast, reasonably priced passenger and vehicle transportation connecting the islands. That seemed like good news for both visitors and locals. Besides, I just plain like ferries. But when I heard the backstory and side effects of this service, I had mixed feelings. To borrow a phrase from Peter Pan, I still believe in ferries. They are efficient mass transportation, but there were disturbing aspects to this one.

The $85 million "Alakai" had problems from the beginning. Inspection delays. Environmental concerns about the big high-speed catamaran's interference with humpback whale migration. Local protesters on Maui and Kauai -- some on surfboards and traditional outrigger canoes -- who objected that an additional 866 people a day could land on their shores, adding to traffic and overdevelopment problems. The 2008 spike in fuel costs. Rudder cracks. Unexpected vulnerability to rough winter seas. Legal challenges because of flawed or missing environment impact studies. Ridership that was less than one-quarter of projections. The list goes on.

The "Alakai" had been scheduled to begin service on August 28, 2007, and finally took its maiden voyage on December 13. It lasted just over 15 star-crossed months. It was supposed to begin service on August 28, 2007, and finally took its maiden voyage on December 13. On Monday, the Hawaiian Supreme Court ruled that Act 2, a November 2007 state law permitting high-speed ferry service to commence before the environmental impact study study was completed, to be unconstitutional. The case was sent back to Circuit Court, but Hawaii Superferry president and CEO Tom Fargo threw in the towel, laid off all employees and after one farewell trip to return all vehicles to their islands of origin, pulled the plug on this service.

Fargo's statement:

"We are hugely disappointed with the Supreme Courts decision that Act 2 is
unconstitutional. After a year of operations, including a successful winter
season, we looked forward to the upcoming spring break with great energy and
enthusiasm. The problem before us today is there appears to be no short-term
solution to this ruling. To conduct another EIS, even with the work done to
date, and move it through legal review might take a year or so. Other options
don't provide the certainty necessary to sustain a business. As a result, we are
going to have to go out and find other employment for 'Alakai,' for now.
Obviously, this is not even close to our preferred outcome. We have believed
from the start and continue to believe that there is a clear and unmet need for
an Inter-Island High Speed Ferry System for the state. My hope, our hope, is
that the conditions will eventually be such that we can realize that vision in
Hawaii."

When I heard the news, I was a little glad and a little sad. I'm happy for islanders on Maui and Kauai, and I'm happy for the humpbacks. But I'm sad about a little trip I won't ever take that sounded splendid when everything went well. The "Alakai" is reportedly available, so if you know anyone who can use a 340-foot-long catamaran, have them call Fargo. He has one he'd like to lease out or perhaps sell.

Palestine: Day 4, Part 2: Nazareth

Nazareth remains one of the world's major Christian pilgrimage centers, plus it's got a disco

As the site of Christ's birth and, equally important, a Palestinian town in Israel rather than in the Occupied Territories, Nazareth is set up for day-tripping tourists from Jerusalem, including the Nativity Village I wrote about previously.

Nazareth

As is so often the case in the Holy Land, Nazareth boasts a number of sites built and maintained by various denominations celebrating the appearance of the Angel Gabriel to Mary telling her that she would give birth to a very special child. Nazareth is also the city of Jesus' early years. Our group had time to visit only two -- and in the context of this land of old stones and ancient buildings, both are quite new.

The Basilica of the Annunciation, an enormous two-level Roman Catholic church on the site where Mary's home is believed to have been located. Consecrated in 1969, it is a contemporary structure with a large lower level built where many people can mill about. Small groups can reserve a sunken chapel-size area to hold their own services (below, top photo), and there is also an opening in the floor to reveal a beautiful mosaic floor from a fifth-century Byzantine church, one of several at that location. The nave of the upstairs church (middle photo) features depictions of the Madonna and Child that were given by Roman Catholics in countries from around the world -- each in the style of the country (bottom image, Japan). Outside, ruins of a Crusader church are also visible.

St. Gabriel's Church is an alternative site where the Angel Gabriel told her that she was pregnant with the Son of God. Work on this opulent Greek Orthodox church began, was stopped for decades, restarted and completed in the late 20th century. Visitors can sip water hand-drawn from a 125-foot deep well in a grotto under the church or buy items in the tiny gift shop.

My guidebooks indicate that Nazareth, the largest Palestinian town within Israel, is lively and has a great old market. But we were on a tight schedule, so we never saw it, but we did pass several other denominations' churches in the town where Joseph had his workshop and where Jesus grew up.

Another opulent dinner -- this time with whole St. Peter's fish from the Sea of Galilee as the entree -- was at La Fontana de Maria Restaurant, a large, attractive eatery. When we left, we heard blaring music from a disco down the street that demonstrates that not everything in the Holy Land is ancient or restrained.

Then, up up the mountain to the St. Gabriel Hotel, once a convent or monastery, with small, simple and dim guest rooms (below). The foot of the bed and the desk are so close that I had to lift the chair over the bed in order to work at the desk -- and I had to climb over the bed to sit on the chair. Who says travel writers always are accommodated in shameless luxury?

United Ceases E-Mail Fare Alerts

Shift in cyber-promotion in the air as United discontinues E-Fare alerts

Even if no one else loves me enough to send me an E-mail, I have been able to count on fare alerts from United and Frontier, which between them operate a lion's share of the flights at Denver International Airport. Now comes word that United is dropping its weekly E-Fare updates for special weekend fares and other offers. United's E-Fares will still be posted twice a week on united.com (Tuesday and Friday) in the websites News and Deals section or Special E-Fare Deals page. To make them easier to find, United's websters show these fares in blue and highlight them with stars. I'm not sure whether or not I'll miss United's E-Fare blasts, but at least I'll know that Frontier still loves me enough to write.

Palestine: Day 4, Part 1, Sebastia, Checkpoint Hassles and Nazareth

Excursion into antiquity marred by arbitrary stop at Israeli checkpoint

What should have an easy trip from Nablus to Nazareth via modern highway was marred by a one-hour delay at a sizable checkpoint and an unexpected detour.

Sebastia
Sebastia, now a sleepy rural town in the hills above Nablus, traces six cultures spanning some 10,000 years: Canaanite, Israelite, Hellenistic, Herodian, Roman and Byzantine plus "modern." It was destroyed and rebuilt several times. Herod the Great -- a great builder but a cruel and blood-thirsty ruler in other respects -- created the city of Sebaste on the site. On the outskirts are drive-to ruins of a grand public building with a shuttered cafe next to it. So many ancient sites are understandably roped off to protect them from crowds, visitors can roam freely among the remnants of walls and columns.  A short loop trail leads up a hill past a Roman amphitheater, a small Crusader chapel and other ruins.

In the small village itself are the remains of a Crusader church , where John the Baptist was supposedly beheaded. The grotto is currently being stabilized.

A deep excavation shows an ancient Roman cemetery (below). The wooden frame remains from a pulley system used to hoist up artifacts that now reside in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem. We did not have time to descend the stairs to see the cemetery more closely.

Checkpoint Hassles
As we were heading to Nazareth in Galilee, we were held up for an hour at a highway barrier checkpoint near the settlement of Ari'el, one of the hundreds of Israeli checkpoints that erupt from the Palestinian landscape like festering wounds. I often have been critical of the US Transportation Security Agency, but TSA screeners are amateur hasslers compared with the Israeli Army.,Often young, always armed soldiers are empowered to make arbitrary decisions about who may pass and who may not, who is searched and who is not. At small checkpoints, there are often only two soldiers, immediately answerable to no one. At larger checkpoints, there may be more soldiers and some kind of chain of command.

At the checkpoint near Air'el, our bus -- 14 American visitors, one Canadian, three Israeli Palestinians (including the driver) and one West Bank Palestinian with a permit to enter -- was diverted to a special screening area. We were asked to get off the bus and bring all our luggage -- the bigger pieces under the bus and all of our carryons -- to be X-rayed. Laptops were checked twice. We had to open our suitcases, and one of the guards poked around every one, riffling through the pages of books and generally wasting time by looking for things that were not there. We had to walk through a metal detector. In the end, our West Bank friend, who I repeat has a permit to enter enter Israel, was denied admittance through that checkpoint. We were ordered around politely. I suspect that Palestinians are not treated politely at all.

Our friend waited at the checkpoint while the driver continued to the next exit, turned around to pick him up and then took a long detour to another smaller checkpoint where the soldiers glanced at our assorted passports and IDs and let us through. The detour through stark and arid Bedouin country reminded me of Navajo Nation land. It was interesting to see, but it was not because the Army wanted us visitors to go sightseeing in an area we would have missed. It was simply to harass the Palestinians.

Nazareth
When we finally arrived in Nazareth in time for a late lunch and truncated tour at the Nazareth Village, an excellent living-history recreation of life in the this area at the time of Christ. It is the brainchild of the Herschend family, key developers in Branson, Missouri, and therefore is done very well. We sat on rough benches and ate food from that time brought by servers in period dress. There was soft round, chewy unleavened bread similar to a tortilla, delicious, lentil soup, chicken and vegetables all served rough pottery vessels.

The interpretive tour was guided by a young theology student from California, who was not in period garb. He took us through the recreated home, meeting house that served as a community gathering place and synagogue, workshop and showed how olives were pressed back then. We were so late that we didn't have time to visit the agricultural area.

More later on the Church of the Annunciation, lodging and dinner in Nazareth.