Palestine: Day 4, Part 2: Nazareth

Nazareth remains one of the world's major Christian pilgrimage centers, plus it's got a disco

As the site of Christ's birth and, equally important, a Palestinian town in Israel rather than in the Occupied Territories, Nazareth is set up for day-tripping tourists from Jerusalem, including the Nativity Village I wrote about previously.

Nazareth

As is so often the case in the Holy Land, Nazareth boasts a number of sites built and maintained by various denominations celebrating the appearance of the Angel Gabriel to Mary telling her that she would give birth to a very special child. Nazareth is also the city of Jesus' early years. Our group had time to visit only two -- and in the context of this land of old stones and ancient buildings, both are quite new.

The Basilica of the Annunciation, an enormous two-level Roman Catholic church on the site where Mary's home is believed to have been located. Consecrated in 1969, it is a contemporary structure with a large lower level built where many people can mill about. Small groups can reserve a sunken chapel-size area to hold their own services (below, top photo), and there is also an opening in the floor to reveal a beautiful mosaic floor from a fifth-century Byzantine church, one of several at that location. The nave of the upstairs church (middle photo) features depictions of the Madonna and Child that were given by Roman Catholics in countries from around the world -- each in the style of the country (bottom image, Japan). Outside, ruins of a Crusader church are also visible.

St. Gabriel's Church is an alternative site where the Angel Gabriel told her that she was pregnant with the Son of God. Work on this opulent Greek Orthodox church began, was stopped for decades, restarted and completed in the late 20th century. Visitors can sip water hand-drawn from a 125-foot deep well in a grotto under the church or buy items in the tiny gift shop.

My guidebooks indicate that Nazareth, the largest Palestinian town within Israel, is lively and has a great old market. But we were on a tight schedule, so we never saw it, but we did pass several other denominations' churches in the town where Joseph had his workshop and where Jesus grew up.

Another opulent dinner -- this time with whole St. Peter's fish from the Sea of Galilee as the entree -- was at La Fontana de Maria Restaurant, a large, attractive eatery. When we left, we heard blaring music from a disco down the street that demonstrates that not everything in the Holy Land is ancient or restrained.

Then, up up the mountain to the St. Gabriel Hotel, once a convent or monastery, with small, simple and dim guest rooms (below). The foot of the bed and the desk are so close that I had to lift the chair over the bed in order to work at the desk -- and I had to climb over the bed to sit on the chair. Who says travel writers always are accommodated in shameless luxury?

Palestine: Day 3, Part 2: Taybeh, Mt. Gerizim and Nablus

Visits with two priests who loom large in their small West Bank towns

Taybeh
Tiny Taybeh is so much more than beer and antiquity. It is the location of St. George Church (below, top photo) and its remarkable, admirable, energetic parish priest, Father Raed Abu Sahlieh (bottom photo). He exemplifies the best of Christ's teachings, walking the walk but also talking the talk to explain to anyone who will listen why peace, social justice and the brotherhood of man are so important to humankind. He runs the church of course, but also a school for area children of all faiths, a 50-voice children's choir, the only care facility around for the elderly and the inspiring Peace Lamp project. His fund-raising idea was to put olive-oil-burning dove-shaped Peace Lamps in all the world's churches. Ambitious and admirable. The church grounds also feature the recreation of a Holy Land dwelling from the time of Christ.

Photos: Mac Lacy, Group Travel Leader

They say if you can't say something good, say nothing at all, so I'm not cyber-saying anything about  lunch at the Asffoura Restaurant in Nablus.

Mt. Gerizim and the Last of the Samaritans
We drove to the top of Mt. Gerizim overlooking Nablus. On the windy summit is a small Samaritan village presided over by Kahen Husni, the priest of this tiny, ancient sect that in Biblical times counted millions of believers and now has fewer than 1,000. The Samaritans, who trace their unbroken lineage back to the ancient Israeli tribe of Levi, maintain practices from two millennia ago, including ritual sheep sacrifice that is so authentic that several thousand Israeli Jews visit annually to see how it was done in the really old days. The Samaritans' practices are similar the Jewish rituals (Saturday sabbath, reading from the Torah in Hebrew, etc.) but Arabic is their everyday language. They don't eschew modern life. They have televisions and cell phones, and a group of boys was energetically kick a soccer ball around on the area used for the sacrifice. Perhaps some of the children harbored dreams of some day playing on a Palestinian team in the World Cup.

Nablus
Back down the mountain to Nablus and a quick run through the ancient market, which is not under threat from Jewish settlers as Hebron is. I could have spent hours there, but we were directed to be on the fast track. Our only detour was to an olive factory that still has traditional hand-operated soap-making apparatus on display but now makes the soap elsewhere.

The simple, well-worn Yasmeen Hotel is our lodging for the night. The location on the fringes of the souk is fantastic, especially for those with time to meander through the market. Sadly, the exterior still bears the scars of bullet hits. My room resembles a monastic cell, but there is free WiFi, without which I'd be even father along than I am. Dinner at the nearby Saraya Restaurant is a traditional progression of small salads, spreads, dips, condiments and of course, pita, followed by roasted lamb and fragrant rice and then knafa, a local dessert made of sweet melted goat cheese, honey and a crunchy topping that might have been small piece of crumbled dough or something else that I couldn't identify.

Most of my traveling companions went to a Turkish bath, but I opted to return to the hotel and check on E-mail, write a blog post and get some sleep. I was still at it when they returned from the Turkish bath.

The Broadmoor: Five Stars for the Fiftieth Time

Colorado's top-of-the-heap Broadmoor offers off-season values; book now!

It is no surprise at all that The Broadmoor, a pink palace on the southwest edge of Colorado Springs, has been awarded the top Five Star rating from the Mobil / Forbes Travel Guide (formerly Mobil Five-Star Award by Mobil Travel Guide). The Broadmoor always wins the highest honor. What is noteworthy that the resort has achieved this honor for a record 50th consecutive year -- the only property to do so. It also has the distinction in 2010 of becoming a triple Five Star winner, with the Penrose Room receiving the highest restaurant designation and The Spa at Broadmoor similarly recognized. It is the only Colorado property to be so honored so often and for so long.

The Mobil Travel Guide originated the prestigious star rating system in the U.S. Think of it as the equivalent of Michelin's stars in Europe. Michelin wanted to sell tires, and similarly, Mobil wanted to sell gasoline. The original Mobil guide is now the Forbes Travel Guide, but its awards are as prestigious as ever. Since 1958, the Mobil Travel Guide’s rigorous ratings process has been based on more than 750 standardized criteria for hotels that begins with a facility inspection considering every aspect of the property, including its overall cleanliness, condition, and location. To achieve Four and Five Star Status, hotels and resort properties must meet or exceed bar-setting service standards as determined byt an unannounced, undercover service evaluation conducted by the Travel Guide’s expert inspectors.

The Broadmoor, which opened in 1918, is quite a spread. It has 744 rooms and suites including 44 cottage bedrooms; 185,000 square feet of flexible event space; a world-class spa; three championship golf courses; a tennis club; 25 retail shops; 18 on property eateries, restaurants and lounges; a full children's program, and more. The Penrose Room, a classic fine-dining restaurant since 1961, is Colorado’s only Forbes Travel Guide Five Star/AAA Five-Diamond Restaurant, making it the most celebrated restaurant in Colorado history in the most celebrated hotel. The Spa at Broadmoor provides 43,000 square feet of sybaritic luxury: spa, salon and fitness center using cutting-edge products and treatments in a setting old-world charm and European elegance. It's hard not to rave about the The Broadmoor, which is simply the best.

The Best for Less

The Broadmoor opened at the end of World War I but rode out the Great Depression, World War II and changes in the way people travel without ever losing its edge. In light of the current economic downturn, the resort is offering Five Star luxury at affordable prices, starting at $80 per person, per night in a standard hotel room between November 15 and February 28. It includes complimentary access to the resort's own movie theater, a complimentary Serenity shower or tub soak with any spa service, 15% discount on select retail shops and a 10% discount at Charles Court, the award-winning Penrose Room or Tavern. During the holidays, The Broadmoor is decked out in an over-the-top (but exceedingly tasteful) display of lights and decorations.

The Broadmoor is at One Lake Avenue, Colorado Springs; 866-837-9520 or 719-577-5775.

Denver Art Museum's iPods -- Plus

21st century museum adds 21st century audio -- and light meals now are served across the plaza


No museum in the nation made more of a recent splash than the Denver Art Museum did in 2006 with the opening of the radical Daniel Liebeskind-designed Hamilton Building, a dramatic angled structure clad in titanium. During a recent visit, I noticed the addition of iPod stations (with instructions on how to use the device and seats to plunk down on while you are doing so) to provide interpretation in as modern a mode as the building itself.

Several galleries are currently closed for the installation of new exhibits, but the gorgeous Landscapes from the Age of Impressionism continues through September 7, featuring 40 exquisite mid- and late-19th century French and American landscapes from the Brooklyn Museum’s collection.

The last time I wanted a bite to eat at the museum, there was a small snack bar in the North Tower, the older of the DAM's two connected buildings. The snack bar is no more. Kevin Taylor's Palette's Restaurant has now expanded into that space, and anyone who wants something lighter is directed across the plaza to Mad Greens, whose mid-day specialties are soups, salads and panini.

The museum is open daily except major holidays and Mondays -- except Monday, August 25, when it will not only be open but will be free to show off Denver's cultural side and artistic treasures in honor of the Democratic National Convention.

The Denver Art Museum is at 100 West 14th Avenue Parkway, Denver; 720-865-5000.

Major Western Anniversaries

Visit the wildlife refuge and classi amusement park at 100, renowned resort at 90, tribal park at 50, Asian teahouse at 10

I'm tired of writing about the miserable state of air travel these days, the diving American dollar and the increasing abuses inflicted on travelers by the Transportation Security Administration, and if you are a regular visitor, you're probably tired of reading about them. So here is an anniversary tribute to a quintet of very different places in the Rocky Mountain region and the Southwest that I've enjoyed and hope that you will too.

Centennial - National Bison Range, Moise, MT

If it weren't for the National Bison Range, the great shaggy beast that once dominated the Plains by the millions might exist today only on the nickel. In fact, the range's Bill West declared, "The whole concept of saving an endangered species sort of begin with the American Bison Society 100 years ago. It started the idea of philanthropy in the wildlife realm and also the idea of buying land specficially for wildlife."

With the support of President Theodore Roosevelt, Congress established the National Bison Range in 1908, when the national census of bison (commonly referred to as "buffalo") had dwindled to a few hundred head in private ownership, including some under the protection of the Pend Oreille peoples, and a federally protected herd in Yellowstone National Park.

Today, the 18,500-acre National Bison Range is a federal wildlife refuge whose 340- to 500-head herd is carefully managed to maintain health and diversity. If you go, stop at the visitor center before embarking on one of three self-drive vehicle tours. In addition to bison, you might see elk, deer, pronghorn, black bear, coyote and ground squirrels, and birds, birds birds. Among the more 200 species of birds that call the home are eagles, hawks, meadowlarks, bluebirds, ducks and geese.

National Bison Range, 58355 Bison Range Road, Moiese, MT 59824; 406-644-2211.

Centennial - Lakeside Amusement Park, Denver

Long before there was Disneyland and all the corporate-owned destination theme parks that have followed, there were local "amusement parks" with rides, entertainment and gardens. Denver had at least two, the original Elitch's in northwest Denver and Lakeside Amusement Park, which opened on Memorial Day 1908 on the city's western fringes. The current Elitch's bears no resemblance to the original, having been relocated to the Platte River Valley, acquired and divested by Six Flags. Through it all, Lakeside has remained a friendly old-style park.

When it opened, it was called the “Coney Island of the West,” because it was ablaze with 100,000 electric lights. No one was concerned about leaving a big carbon footprint in those days! It was so popular that a trolley line was laid to drop visitors right at the illuminated Tower of Jewels, then Colorado’s tallest building and still a local landmark. Today, the 40 major rides include spinning rides, upside-down rides, flying rides and a new drop tower. Don’t miss the classic wooden Cyclone Coaster, the original merry-go-round, and two tiny trains pulled by the country’s last two miniature steam locomotives from the 1904 World’s Fair. Family-owned Lakeside welcomes today’s families with a charming Kiddies’ Playland and affordable pricing.

Starting next week, Lakeside will be open daily through August 17, and then weekends through Labor Day. Gate admission (no rides) is just $2.50 (single ride tickets are available); unlimited rides $13.75 weekdays, $19.75, Friday through Sunday through Labor Day. Through sounds and images, the nostalgia-rich website evokes the feeling of a century ago.

Lakeside Amusement Park; 4601 Sheridan Boulevard, Denver; 303-477-1621.

90 Years - The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs

Next month the Broadmoor celebrates its 90th anniversary. I was kind of hoping that this magnificent resort hotel, which has been honored with more AAA Diamonds, Mobil Stars and assorted wine and hospital official accolades than any other, would make a big production of this noteworthy annivesary. But either they are saving their firepower for the centennial, only 10 years from now, or are so busy with the upcoming US Senior Open Golf Championship coming up on July 28-August 3 that there's no time to throw a birthday party worthy of Broadmoor standards.

The hotel opened with three buildings, 111 guest rooms, one golf course and lofty ambitions to match the finest European hotels in terms of architecture, cuisine and most of all, service. It is now the grandest resort in Colorado, and one of the grandest in North America. Set on 3,000 acres, it now includes 593 hotel rooms, 107 suites, 40 new "cottage" accommodations, 14 dining facilities from the fine-dining Penrose Room to the casual snackbar-style Cafe Julie, four lounges, magnifident public spaces, three golf courses, a tennis center, pools, a luxurious health club, a private lake, a movie theater, meeting and thousands of square feet of convention space, plus, plus, plus.

There's no better place Colorado, and few in the country, for a sybaritic vacation or romantic getaway, a wonderful special occasion dinner or Sunday brunch (right), an opulent 70-item feast in the Lake Terrace Dining Room (adults, $38). But even if you are on a tight budget, you can come into the hotel, walk the main-floor corridors whose walls are hung with historic photos and memorabilia, stroll around the lake, park yourself on a lakeside bench or sink into a comfortable chair in the grand lobby. It doesn't cost a king's ransom to dine in The Tavern (lunch, $9.50-$28; dinner $16-$48). Any way that your budget and time permit, this would be the year to come and share the anniversary spirit of this landmark resort.

The Broadmoor, 1 Lake Avenue, Colorado Springs; 719-577-5775 or 866-837-9520 (hotel reservations), or 719-634-7711.

50 Years - Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, AZ/UT

Monument Valley's spectacular sandstone towers, arches and fins are ancient formations that have served as backdrops for numerous Western films, but the official Navajo Nation tribal park designation is "only" 50 years old this year. Earlier this month, the anniversary was celebrated with two days of races -- a marathon, half-marathon, 10K relay and 5K fun run. Monument Valley Celebration Day Coming up on July 11 are the Drums of Summer and Outdoor Concert Series with live entertainment. The golden-anniversary year culiminates in the Monument Valley Hot Air Balloon Rally, December 12-14, with balloons entered by invitation only. Also scheduled for completion later this year is the new View Hotel & Spa. Otherwise, all you need to do is drive or ride through the park. General admission is $5. Guided tours, camping and hiking are also available. Inquire about permit procedures and fees.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, P.O. Box 360289, Monument Valley, UT 84536; 435-727-5870. The visitor center is at the junction of Highway 89 and Highway 64 in Cameron, AZ.

10 Years - Dushanbe Teahouse, Boulder

Dushanbe, Tajikistan, is one of Boulder's sister cities. As a token of friendship, that central Asian city donated a classic teahouse, tiled inside and out, to the City of Boulder. It took some time for Boulder to decide where to erect it and more time for Tajik artisans to assemble it here. It opened in 1998, and in just a decade, it has become such a Boulder fixture that it seems to have been in place forever.

Within the intricate and colorful walls, the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is a popular place to come for a meal or a spot of tea -- an oasis of Asian tranquility. It is neither strictly vegetarian nor vegan but offers many dishes to meet these dietary needs. Breakfast and brunch entrees, $5.95-$11; breakfast scones and pastries, $1.50-$2.25; dinner entrees, $13-$18.

The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is at 1770 13th Street (that's the Boulder Country Farmers' Market block), Boulder; 303-442-4993.