Kirkwood, the southernmost ski area in the Lake Tahoe orbit, is neither the largest nor the most famous resort in the region. Then again, it is not the smallest or most obscure either. Like Baby Bear's Porridge, it is just right. While it participates in the Ski Lake Tahoe interchangeable lift pass that includes free daily bus from South Lake Tahoe, it feels like a separate world apart. With the lakeshore more than 30 miles away,it feels Sierra Nevada summits and valleys. It is also a self-contained ski resort with lodging stretching between to base areas and a small mall that is designated as Kirkwood's village. Every ski resort now has to have a village, doesn't it?
The ski terrain is stunning and so are the views. Four skiable/snowboardable peaks. A wonderful set-apart beginner area with the children's ski school at the base. For intermediate, advanced and expert snowriders, trails, slopes and bowls facing in virtually every compass direction so it is possible to ski or ride in the sun. Abundant wide cruising runs. Plenty of places to go off-piste. Snowcat skiing beyond the lift-served boundaries. Natural half-pipes. Hike-to terrain for those willing to earn their turns. A fine cross-country and snowshoe center for guests who prefer gentler winter pleasures.
With a higher base elevation (7,800 feet) than other Tahoe-area resorts, it tends to to capture lighter, fluffier snow, and with more conventional-speed lifts than high-speed uphill people overs and traverses from one sector to another, powder at Kirkwood tends to linger longer than at other Tahoe resorts. I skied there recently several midweek days after a storm, and while I didn't find any untracked powder, a lot of off-piste acreage remained unpacked.
Like much larger and more elaborate Squaw Valley on Lake Tahoe's North Shore, Kirkwood is crowned by chutes, cliffs and cornices to lure thrill-seeking experts.
Kirkwood, 1501 Kirkwood Meadows Drive, Kirkwood, California 95646; 209-258-6000 (main number) 877-KIRKWOOD (snow conditions).
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