2009 Indian Market in Santa Fe

The most renowned market for Native American arts surpasses its billing

Even before I moved out West, I had heard about Indian Market, the place to see the very best of Southwestern art. Since I moved to Colorado in 1988, I've been wanting to attend Indian Market in Santa Fe. New Mexico's historic, beautiful and arts-obsessed capital city has hosted it since 1922. It is famous throughout the Southwest for the quality of art. Winning a ribbon in one of numerous categories in this juried event is a high honor for any artist. My husband and I went with our friends, Dick and Sally Moore, who live in Albuquerque and are Indian Market regulars.

Indian Market now dominates downtown, radiating out from the Plaza to adjacent side streets in all directions. Tens of thousands of visitors, from serious collectors of Native art to casual visitors, are drawn to booths set up by more than 1,200 artists from some 100 tribes. The crowds were too thick for me to photograph with my modest camera and modest stature. Nearby galleries host demonstrations where visitors can watch artists at work. Pottery. Jewelry. Paintings. Photography. Woven works. Wood carvings. Sculpture. Indian Market has it all in glorious abundance. Now that I finally got there, I wonder what took me so long. Here are just a few snapshots of the event.


Miss Indian America, a green-eyed beauty from California, was on hand for Indian Market. She probably had some official functions, but we encountered her window-shopping.

Several stages scattered around Indian Market enable musicians and dancers to perform their arts too. Families of potters often start their children young and display their efforts at Indian Market.

Twelve-year-old Jamie proudly holds a blue ribbon and the pot for which he won it. He is a beginning potter and admits that his parents helped.

Dusty Naranjo of Espanola, New Mexico, uses traditional Santa Clara techniques to render contemporary themes in clay.

This man looked almost like a sculpture as he quietly and stalwartly surveyed the crowd.

Artworks range from simple, like these flat kachinas...

...to works of astonishing complexity and sophstication like "Quest," a towering piece by Adrian Nasafotie, a Hopi artist. He displayed the 57-inch tall woodcarving, which he crafted from a single piece of cottonwood, on a turntable so that it could be seen from all sides.

One of many renditions of Koshari, the mischievous clown of Hopi and other Southwest Indian tradition. This piece was made by Joe Cajero, a renowned sculptor working in Placitas, New Mexico.

Tradition meets technology.

Oreland C. Joe of Kirtland, New Mexico, is a multi-talented artist. He is a sculptor, jeweler, musician and songwriter, and he told the story of a frog who nearly died but was revived as a medicine being, with a balance of masculine and feminine meaning he was both a warrior and a protector. Unfortunately, the ambient crowd noise drowned out his story-telling, so I hope I remembered it correctly. Even without being able to understand his words, just watching this brief video will give you an idea of how generously many Indian artists share the stories of their people or talk about their art.

Some people just aren't interested in Native art or stories, no matter what -- at least right now. But just give him time...

Fortunately, Rocky the bomb-sniffing dog didn't have much work to do. Note his Santa Fe PD badge.

Four hours and change, and I was in overload mode, but I'm hoping to return -- maybe in 2010. Guaranteed that it won't take me another 21 years to get back.

C Lazy U Breaking Out of Guest Ranch Mold

Ownership and management changes herald new direction of old guest ranch

The C Lazy U Ranch entered Colorado's dude and guest ranching picture back in 1946. Its history reveals a series of owners, some who stayed aboard for decades and some who flipped the now-2,000-acre ranch near Granby after just a few months. Clark and Peg Murray of Kansas City discovered the ranch on a Colorado vacation in 1958 and purchased it 30 years later -- talk about patience. More recently, they have been joined in a multi-family ownership group that includes Don Bailey and Leslie Stanford of Denver, Linda and Bill Jacobs of Chicago and Tucson, and Adrienne and Dean Singleton of Denver (think "newspaper publisher"). Singleton became involved with the transformation of the neighboring former Hudler Ranch as as vacation home development called CLU Preserves.

This is a long lead-up to the news that DeNapoli Capital Partners, a hospitality acquisition, development and management company, is now operating the C Lazy U. As the Wall Street Journal reported two years ago, the dude ranch's role in the hospitality industry has been changing, with fewer guest ranches in absolute numbers, fewer that remain not only family-owned but also family-run, fewer that have resisted the temptation of subdivision into ranchettes and more that have been transformed from classic equestrian-focused ranches to a broader resort format. DiNapoli, based in southern California, has been involved in such high-profile luxury hotel and resort brands as Four Seasons and Hyatt, and in Denver, it owns and manages the classy, theatrically themed Hotel Teatro.

At its peak, the C Lazy U achieved Mobil's Five Star ranking for 25 years in a row as well as Four Diamonds from AAA -- unusual in the relatively rustic world of guest ranches. The Four Diamond Teatro, which opened in 1999, has recently renovated its guest rooms with obligatory flat-screen televisions, iPod docking stations, sybaritic new bedding and a passel of other upmarket facilities and services. Some of that polish is being applied to the C Lazy U, which is getting the Hotel Teatro-style treatment. The Kevin Taylor Restaurant Group, which operates the fine-dining Restaurant Kevin Taylor and more casual Prima Ristorante in the Teatro, is consulting on modernization of the C Lazy U's menus. And the ranch, which is probably going to provide shorter alternatives to the standard mandatory one-week stay, is also getting such Teatro-style room enhancements as those iHome docking stations, Beverly Hills Black Edition beds and beautiful linens.

It makes me think, ironically, of the '60s TV comedy called "The Beverly Hillbillies," in which the backwoods Clampetts began shaking up the southern California social scene. Things have come full circle with southern California hotel standards that are going to shake up expectations of dude ranch guests at the venerable C Lazy U.

C Lazy U Ranch, P.O. Box 379, Granby, CO 80446; 970-887-3344. Hotel Teatro, 1100 14th Street, Denver 80202; 888-727-1200 (reservations) and 303-228-1100.

TED is Dead

United's no-frills carrier the latest casualty of the world airline crisis

United Airlines' TED, launched with great fanfare five years ago to compete with such low-fare carriers as Southwest and Frontier, will fly into the sunset by early 2009. Seventy planes (15 percent of the fleet, including less fuel-efficient 737s) will either be retired or retrofitted as mainline United planes, including a first-class cabin that will theoretically produce more revenues. United is expected to cut 1,100 jobs as well. Bloomberg, which tracks financial data, reported that while United's stock has been the worst 2008 performer among 14 publicly traded airline stocks, it rose 61 cents to $9.14 yesterday. Leave it to Wall Street to find cheer in other people's misery.

And, for travelers, there's more probably more misery to come. Bloomberg also noted that US airlines have already announced 5 percent capacity cuts, but quoted Ray Neidl, a securities analyst with Calyon Securities, as saying that airlines "need" to cut 20 percent to achieve some kind of industry--wide financial stability, given the current price of fuel. That's going to leave a lot of travelers scrambling for fewer seats, paying much more to fly, taking the train (Amtrak is already seeing record passenger loads), Greyhound, filling our tanks with increasingly expensive gas or staying close to home.

Addendum on June 6: Today's New York Times ran a business analysis called "Big Airlines Rush to Go Small." Reporter Micheline Maynard's piece began, "With fuel prices almost double what they were a year ago, airlines have switched strategies from expansion to downsizing." And she proceeded with a laundry list of which big airlines are becoming smaller and in what way, also noting, "For passengers, it all means a system that made flights cheap and plentiful is slipping away." And that's pretty much what I have concluded.

Krazy About "Kooza"

Cirque de Soleil touring show now dazzling Denver

My name is Claire, and I'm a Cirque-a-holic.

Fortunately, Cirque de Soleil sends a touring show to Denver practically every year, sets up it yellow and gold "Grand Chapiteau" tent in a Pepsi Center parking lot and dazzles Denver audiences. "Kooza" premiered last night for its month-long run, and my husband and I were there. (In the spirit of full disclosure, we have seen every Cirque show that has come to Denver, including "the horse one," and when we were at a convention in Las Vegas a few years ago, seeing three resident Cirque shows was one of the redeeming features about being there).

"Kooza," like other Cirque shows, has a story line -- usually a bewildered wanderer led into a magical world -- but this is a thin thread really links incredible acrobats, trapeze artists, tightrope walkers, jugglers, dancers and comedians and allows audiences to relax and breathe between the show's heart-stopping acts. See the trailer by clicking here.

Show after show, act upon act, these are universally performers. Hint: Go to "Kooza," if only for the two amazing men whose act involves a pair of giant "hamster wheels." Take a look at the YouTube video that just hints at the power of this act. Every ride at neighboring Elitch's pales beside the apparatus on which the perform.

Cirque is celebrating its silver anniversary this year. It traces its origins to Baie-Saint-Paul, a small town northeast of Quebec City, where Gilles Ste.-Croix founded a street theater that he called Les Échassiers de Baie-Saint-Paul (the Baie-Saint-Paul Stiltwalkers). These gifted street performers played to local and tourist crowds, striding on stilts, juggling, dancing, breathing fire and playing music. One of the locals who was enchanted by the troupe was Guy Laliberté, who with Ste.-Croix and others founded Cirque du Soleil. Their dream was to take a Quebec-based company around the world.

Fast-forward to 2009, and the dream has come true -- and way more. Twenty resident and touring troupes are electrifying audiences in North and South America, Europe and Asia. Cast and crew are astonishingly international, representing 40 countries. Unsurprisingly, many are from Eastern Europe and China, where circus arts and acrobatics are widely taught and the talent pool is deep.

"Kooza" will be in Denver through September 20. Tuesday through Friday ticket prices are $60-$130 for adults, $38.50-$87.50 for children to age 12 (slightly higher on weekends). Westword is promoting a 25th-anniversary special at 25 percent off,; I think you have to register to obtain tickets at this discount. The apaper is also running a contest for free "Kooza" tickets. Otherwise, buy on-line or call 800-678-5440.

Guidebook for Rock-Climbing Families

Climbing routes and much more make this book an excellent resource for climbers of all ages

My husband is a former rock climber, so we have shelves full of climbing guidebooks. I don't ever look at them, because they are way out of my universe. When he and I first met and he enthused about climbing, I took a one-day class and learned very, very basic climbing and rappelling. I enjoyed it enough to wish that I had learned to climb when I was younger -- much younger. Tristan Hechtel, now just graduated from high school here in Boulder, is one lucky young climber who did start when he was very young. He probably can't even remember when he didn't go climbing with his mother. Sibylle Hechtel's engaging new book, Fun Climbs Colorado: Best Family Climbing Vacations, is based on her first-hand experiences.

I don't have a young child anymore, but if I did, I'd want this book because it includes not only well-researched and achievable routes but also other useful information for any family trip. The climbing information is very clear and includes everything I imagine parents would want to know: How easy each climbing area is to reach. What the approach is like. Type of rock. What gear that is needed. The recommended age range. Camping options. Whether there is cell service. Whether dogs are permitted. Even (should an emergency arise) the location of the nearest hospital. I also like her assessment of the pros and cons of each climbing area. These might include ease or difficulty of the approach; accessibility; crowds; convenient camping or not.

And of course, there is detailed information on each climbing route, including grade rating (a standard numerical system), plus key spots along the route described, numbered and keyed to a photograph. She also gives one to five stars to routes in the book. One star means "not that great, included for completeness" to five stars for routes she deems "absolutely fantastic climb, worth doing several times."

For any vacationing family, the additional travel tips are great -- perhaps if the weather is not conducive for family climbing, in case youngsters want a break from climbing, to accommodate any non-climbers in the family or as add-ons while a family is in the vicinity of a recommended climbing area. Hechtel has scouted out where to buy groceries and supplies if camping, hotels/motels if not camping, restaurants and "What Else Can We Do That's Fun?"

Clear maps, excellent graphics and comprehensive contact information for all resources make this an invaluable guide for climbing families -- and, come to think of it, also for climbers without kids who want more peripheral details than most climbing guidebooks include. Fun Climbs Colorado: Best Family Climbing Vacations sells for $22, 15 percent of which is donated to the Access Fund, national advocacy organization for climbers and the preservation of climbing sites.

Fake Reviews, Fake Travel Sites -- For Real

Fakery -- it's not just for Rolex watches anymore

Travelers know about fake Rolex watches, faux Louis Vuitton luggage and other cheap knock-offs, and when we succumb to temptation in a market or from a street vendor, we are not being gullible or delusional. We know what is being sold, and if we are willing to fork over a bit of cash for a look-alike, we know what we are buying. But when two recent posts by two respected travel bloggers on two sides of the Atlantic took up the topic of "fake" elsewhere on the web, I was reminded that fakery a dismaying trend in the travel-sphere, where the stakes are bigger than petty cash for an imitation brand-name product. It even seems that Internet users who would never send earnest money to some orphaned Nigerian princess or London barrister can be fooled by phony-baloney travel sites.

Today, Darren Cronin wrote "The telltale signs of a fake travel website" on UK-based Travel Rants. His advice is particular germane to travelers booking air and lodging separately. Some of his tips sound a bit like airport security boilerplate. Instead of being asked whether you packed your own luggage, have had it under your control and been asked to transport a gift from someone you did not know, Cronin counsels, "Book your accommodation through a personal recommendation or a company that you have used before."

How to Spot a Fake Site

Another tip that seems obvious to me is to be wary of any sites within "poor spelling and grammar within the content on the website and within emails." I have grammar police tendencies, so maybe this comes more naturally to me than to someone surfing for good hotel rates. This blog has been spammed by travel sites from India and Pakistan so often recently that, having tired of deleting irrelevant comments with links to "travel information" sites on the subcontinent, I recently and apologetically instituted "blog owner approval."

Cronin also recommended checking out the location of blog owners and how long the blog has been around. He recommended DNS Stuff. Another popular domain name search is WhoIs. One tip that is probably obvious to people more attuned to the intricacies of the Internet but wasn't to me, is "Make sure that the web address starts with https:// and the padlock appears on your browser." I've noticed URLs starting with https but really didn't know what it meant. According to an explanation on Yahoo! Answers, it "was designed by Netscape Communications Corporation to provide authentication and encrypted communication and is widely used on the World Wide Web for security-sensitive communication such as payment transactions and corporate logons."

The Kerfuffle Over Fake Hotel Reviews

As I was musing the issue of fake travel sites created to extract payment for presumably fake travel bookings, I also thought about Christopher Elliott's recent blogs about fake hotel reviews, specifically relating TripAdvisor.com. Just as ballot boxes are sometimes stuffed, hotels have been accused of having friends and employees write glowingly positive reviews of their properties in order to increase bookings. In his most recent post on the topic, "Does TripAdvisor Hotel Manipulation Scandal Render the Site Completely Useless?", he quoted TripAdvisor's April Robb, who wrote, "When a review is suspected to be fraudulent, it is immediately taken down and we have measures to penalize businesses for attempts to game the system. Penalties are handled on a case by case basis."

Then Elliott rhetorically asked, "So should you trust TripAdvisor? Having covered the site since the very start, I think I’m uniquely qualified to answer that question. And my answer is: maybe."

He continued, "Hotels and restaurants are gaming the ratings system, without a doubt. What’s significant about the recent TripAdvisor warnings is that they appear to shift their fraud-detection efforts from an unrealistic, proactive approach to a more reasonable, reactive approach. Which is to say, they do their best to catch bogus reviews as they’re posted, but in the end, they can’t stop them all. "

My post, "Hotel Review Sites: Useful or Misleading," about online veracity in travel reviews, also addressed the topic. Bottom line as many of us have concluded is caveat emptor -- buyer beware, whether it's your credit card number that you are sending out into cyberspace or making a reservation with certain expectations for your vacation or business travel experience.

Travel Apps for Cell Phones

Free and cheap iPhone applications for travelers

I think I have the most basic cell phone and service plan on earth. With my simple Nokia phone and pay-in-advance T-mobile plan, I prepay $100 for 1,000 minutes. The last recharge lasted me over 11 months. However, if I did spring for a more sophisticated communication device (like an iPhone), I'd install one of the applications for making travel information easier to obtain anywhere, anytime. USA Weekend made five suggestions for iPhone apps that it likes for travelers -- and by the way, they're accesible online too for mobile-phone Luddites like me:

• AroundMe - Free app with localized happenings and resources.
• Yelp - Also free and also localized info on restaurants, shops, events and more.
• WorldMate - Free travel planner, including flight alert, maps, weather and much more.
• Packing - There's all sorts of free packing information on the web, but for some reason, USA Weekend likes this 99-cent app.
• FlightTrack (right) - Again, there are lots of free flight-trackers services out there, but USA Weekend picked this $4.99 version, which offers real-time status for flights from around the world, live weather radar updates, route maps and other information.