Arches National Park's Wall Arch Collapses

Park's 12th largest arch collapsed in the middle of the night with no witnesses and no injuries

On August 3, Wall Arch was one of the more prominent and accessible sandstone arches in Utah's Arches National Park. At 71 feet high and and 33 1/2 feet wide, it was the 12th largest of the 2,000-plus arches known in the park, according to the National Park Service. Sometime on the night of August 4, Wall Arch came tumbling down, blocking a section of the Devil's Garden Trail beyond Landscape Arch. Fortunately, the collapse did not occur during the day, when visitors frequent the trail. (The park service's before and after photos appear below.)



"Not being a geologist, I can't get very technical but it just went kaboom," chief ranger Denny Ziemann told reporter Tom Wharton of the Salt Lake City Tribune. "The middle of the arch just collapsed under its own weight. It just happens."

Wharton also wrote, "Ziemann said the trail closure extends from Double 0 Arch to Wall Arch. If the rest of Wall Arch falls soon, the Park Service will clear off the trail to make it passable. If it continues to teeter over the trail, it may be a while before the trail reopens."

The park service itself reported that "On August 7, 2008, representatives from both the National Park Service Geologic Resources Division and the Utah Geological Survey visited the site and noted obvious stress fractures in the remaining formation." The trail is currently closed because debris has not yet been removed -- a tricky operation under any circumstances, but even more so in an area where motorized vehicles are generally not used.

Recognizing that natural phenomena are attractions in their own right, park service and the Moab Area Travel Council officials put a positive spin on the loss of one the park's most iconic arches, describing the event as a rare opportunity to see "geology in action."

Guanajuato's Mummies: Halloween-Style Fright

36 Mexican mummies touring US museums, starting in Detroit

When I was a child, I once had a skeleton Halloween costume. It was a one-piece black garment with bones printed on the front and sleeves. The back was all-black. I can't remember why I wanted it at the time. Even as an adult who accompanied many a grade-school field trip to the Denver Museum of Natural History (now the Denver Museum of Nature & Science) and other displays of dinosaur bones, skeletons of long-extinct animals don't bother me. But mummies give me the willies. I don't really like to see their exhumation, unwrapping and examination on television documentaries, and when I visited the Egyptian Museum in Cairo earlier this year, I had plenty to look at without going to the mummy room.

Needless to say, I was less than excited to learn that one of the supposed highlights of a tour of Guanajuato included the city's Mummy Museum.
The museum backs against the municipal cemetery, where relatives could pay a one-time high fee for the grave or pay a lower fee each year. The mummies displayed were "evicted" from their crypts when their survivors or other relatives (if there were any) could not or would pay a tax or fee for the continuing occupation of the grave. The mummies displayed date from between 1865 and 1958, when the grave-tax law was changed. They are known as "the accidental mummies," because natural conditions created mummification, rather than a deliberate intention of mummifying human remains.The museum collection comprises 119 mummies, some standing, some lying down, some erect, some contorted, some clothed, others not. But to me, they were all creepy.

I managed to hold it together until I reached the room with the small children and babies. Then, I snapped one photograph and fled. Those small mummified bodies really creeped me out.

The parking area in front of the museum is lined with small businesses. Early in the morning, this "Mummy Sweet Shop" was not yet open.

Numerous souvenir stands sold all the regulation Mexican tourist schlock-- plus skulls of various designs.

According to the Mummy Tombs website, which describes mummies in various lands and is clearly maintained by someone who does not share my antipathy to mummies, 36 Guanajuato mummies started touring the US on October 10 and will visit seven museums before they return to Guanajuato. Some have reportedly never been on public view before, even in Guanajuato. The Detroit Science Center is the first stop for "The Accidental Mummies of Guanajuato" exhibition, which closes there on January 31, 2010. I haven't had any luck finding out which other six cities is is supposed to visit. If one happens to be Denver, I doubt I'll go to see them.

Quiet Policy Changes at Colorado's Shrine Mountain Inn

We discover the need for more BYOs at popular backcountry hut

With my husband and/or friends, I have been to Shrine Mountain Inns four times in the last two years -- three times in summer for peak wildflower season (Indian paintbrush and other blooms, top right), once in late winter. I love the trio of easy-access log huts anytime. With flush toilets, showers, and hot and cold running water, Walter's, Jay's and Chuck's represent real backcountry luxury.

In winter, when it is necessary to ski or snowshoe in with a heavy pack loaded with cold-weather gear, food and drink, the route is mercifully short (about 2.7 miles from the Vail Pass parking area) and straightforward, and is an area with minimal avalanche hazard. In summer, it is possible drive up the Shrine Pass Road, pass through the private property gate to the Shrine Mountain Inns and pull practically to the door. That means it's no sweat at all to take a cooler loaded with eggs, fresh fruits and vegetables and whatever meat or other goodies you might want to grill, a couple of bottles or wine, and other "civilized" food and drink.

Six of us -- three who had been to Shrine Mountain Inns before and we thought we knew the drill-- drove in yesterday. We were all looking forward to the tranquility of the backcountry, an overnight at Walter's (center, right) and some hiking amid the splendor of midsummer wildflowers. We brought relatively sumptuous foods and wine. but we didn't bring sleeping bags or bedding, because up until a few months ago, quilts were supplied.

Sherry, the long-time hut keeper, had a stash of sleeping bags -- for rent at $10 each, including a cotton liner. I suppose if any of us had read the info page on the website carefully, we would have brought our own, as we routinely do for other huts in the 10th Mountain Division Hut System, which handles bookings for the privately owned Shrine Mountain Inns.

Sherry wasn't sure whether the quilts would be back for the winter season, so if we go up again then, we'll be sure to inquire when we book. If the policy hasn't changed, next time our sleeping bags will come with us. In summer, so will real wine glasses and decent kitchen knives. Hut kitchens are equipped with a miscellany of yard sale-style cooking implements, dishes, mugs and glasses, which is part of their charm. Still, next time, especially in summer when we can drive right up, I will also bring at least one paring knife and one chef's knife. And if we have wine, I'll bring wine glasses. Since we took the trouble to bring reasonably good wine, it would have been better with wine glasses instead of jelly glasses, water tumblers and coffee mugs.

These, of course, are minor blips on a wonderful 24 hours. We arrived in the early after, hiked the Shrine Mountain Trail with its wondrous wildflowers, put in many hours working on one of the most vexing jigsaw puzzles any of us had ever seen (bottom, right), lingered over a relaxing dinner and after a leisurely breakfast the next morning, packed up to leave -- refreshed relaxed and happy. It is amazing how much of an escape 24 hours not too far away from can provide -- even under gray skies.

We drove back down to I-70, got off in Frisco to a convenient trailhead and hiked the North Tenmile Creek Trail from the outskirts of town into the Eagles Nest Wilderness. More wildflowers. We capped the short getaway with margaritas and a late lunch on the deck of a restaurant called the Boatyard in Frisco. The drinks hit the spot, the food was fine and it was a suitable re-entry from the high-country hut.

Images of Guanajuato the Gorgeous

Charmed location and charming center in fabulous Spanish colonial city

Guanajuato is one of the most beautiful cities I've seen. Set in deep valley and connected to the "outside" by tunnels through the steep mountains, this Spanish colonial gem is a vibrant, walkable city. Its narrow lanes, kaleidoscope of color and a cacophony of sound are energetic and energizing. Site of the 21,000-student University of Guanajuato, it is a youthful city as well.

Lording over the city, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is this heroic statue of El Pipila, a hero of the Mexican Independence movement two centuries ago.


Spreading beneath El Pipila's feet is this enticing panorama.

This steep funicular whisks passengers between the plaza in front the El Pipila monument and the heart of the old colonial city.

The funicular's base terminal is just a block from the triple-domed basilica and the simple back of the Teatro Juarez.

The theater and the basilica from the front.

The landscaped plaza across the street is not a customary square but a triangle, but still squeezes in a gazebo and a fountain..

India laurels, pruned to box-like shapes, grow thick and provide shade.

India laurel branches are all but impenetrable. I watched a small boy try to climb the tree and give up in discouragement, because even he found now route through.

The center of Guanajuato has two main vehicular streets, several pedestrian-only streets and a maze of narrow colonial streets.

Guanajuato's wealth came from rich silver mines in the surrounding mountains. Ore carts are used as decorative objects here and there in town.

Simple swinging doors to a neighborhood bar invite photography -- or entry.

The following images are just buildings and streetscapes that appealed to me.

Artist Diego Rivera was born in Guanajuato. His family's house is now a museum. The ground floor is furnished with period antiques, and the upper floors are a museum of his and contemporary artists' works.

Just as US cities boast Mexican restaurants, Guanajuato has a bagel place. Cultural cross-fertilization works both ways.

Good night, Guanajuato.

Tributes to Cowboy Culture

The iconic West lives on in museums showcasing Western art, rodeo and entertainment

When I was in Oklahoma City recently, I spent not-enough-time in the National Cowboy & Western Museum, one of the wonderful institutions throughout the West commemorating, memorializing and sometimes romanticizing the cattle and the cowpokes who have worked them under the big blue dome that covers the Western prairies, valleys and canyons. A montage of cowboy and television cowboys provide a "hey, remember that!" pop-culture connection to what is a far more comprehensive display of American West -- Anglo, Hispanic and black cowboys at work; rodeo as a social connector for ranchers on the West's vast open lands and as entertainment; the US Cavalry; the art of the West; excellent children's interpretive sections, and even beautiful gardens. The image below shows the rear of the museum, as seen from the gardens.

As a born-and-bred New Englander, I continue to be captivated by Western art and culture. In addition to the National Cowboy & Western Museum, here are other excellent museums with significant permanent, rotating and visiting exhibitions that celebrate and enlighten about various aspects of the American West:

• Buffalo Bill Historical Center (five museums, including the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Plains Indian Museum and the Whitney Museum of Western Art), Cody, WY
• Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave, Golden, CO
• Cheyenne Frontier Days' Old West Museum, Cheyenne
• Colorado History Museum, Denver
• Gilcrease Museum, Tulsa
• The Journey Museum, Rapid City, SD
• Leanin' Tree Museum and Sculpture Garden of Western Art, Boulder, CO
• Mormon Museum, LDS Museum of Church History and Art, Salt Lake City
• National Hispanic Cultural Center, Albuquerque
• National Museum of Wildlife Art, Jackson, WY
• ProRodeo Hall of Fame, Colorado Springs

I've enjoyed visits to and been fascinated by them all

AlaskaTransportation News

Alaska travel representatives met with travel met media & shared news

Alaska is one of my favorite places. I've been from Southeast (Juneau, Wrangell, Petersburg, Ketchikan, Skagway, Haines, Sitka) to Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean. I've been there is summer (glorious weather, abundant wildflowers, sport fishing, hiking) and in winter (fabulous skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, dogsledding). The cities and towns are enticing year-round. Here are some recent and upcoming developments in transportation that are of interest to Alaska visitors:

Transportation (Cruise Ships, Ferries, Trains)

Alaska Marine Highway - The ferries remain the best way for thrifty independent travelers to explore the coat. Eleven ferries travel on 3,500 miles of sea lanes between Bellingham, Washington, to Dutch Harbor in the Aleutians. Ferries accommodate vehicles (including RVs), motorcycles, bicycles and kayaks. Reserve for vehicles and staterooms, but foot passengers can just walk on. They're welcome to pitch a tent on the back deck and eat their own food.

Alaska Railroad - A self-propelled railcar, the Chugach Explorer, entered service earlier this year on the Glacier Discovery Route between Whitier and Trail Creek. The railroad partnered with the Forest Service for ranger-guided hikes on the Spencer Glacier Trail, a whistle stop on the route. It is efficient, quiet and emits for fewer pollutants than conventional locomotives. During 2009, the railroad has been offering a free one-day Adventure Class train trip to anyone turning 50 during the year. Perhaps, it or a similar promotion will be available in 2010 -- but meanwhile, if you celebrated the big 5-0 in '09 and will be in Alaska, grab your free ticket.

American Safari Cruises - In 2010, seven-day sailings to/from Juneau on intimate 12-, to 36-passenger yachts include two days in Glacier Bay. Guests can sea kayak or zodiac to explore the shore, opportunities not offered to big-ship cruises passengers. The first of two larger (but not much larger) vessels enters service in 2011 under the brand, InnerSea Discoveries.

Cruise West - The "Spirit of Oceanus" won't be sailing Alaskan waters in 2010, because this small ship embarks on The Voyages of the Great Explorers, a round-the-world cruise on March 6, 2010.

Gray Line Alaska - Sixty-year-old operator of sightseeing programs operates more than 200 motorcoaches, 10 railcars and two day boats now has new packages that include overnights in Princess Lodges.

Holland America - In 2010, the line's "Amsterdam" sails a regular 14-day Seattle-Anchorage itinerary that includes the new (to Holland America) ports of Homer and Kodiak Island.

Princess Cruises - For 2010, new Family Fun Cruisetour, a 12-night cruise + land package with pricing discounted for entire families, not just additional passengers sharing the cabin. Land portion includes two nights in Fairbanks, two just outside of Denali National Parks.

Seldovia Bay Ferry - New ferry at the southern end of the gorgeous Kenai Peninsula linking the artsy town of Homer with Seldovia, a seldom-visited (until 2010), roadless village where the Seldovia Village Tribe has a new museum. Also, abundant birding, hiking and a historic Russian Orthodox Church. Fare: adult $59, $29.59 ages 12 and under roundtrip, including a look at the Gull Island Bird Sanctuary, where some 16,000 seabirds nest.

On the Road Again

My own travel schedule has me dizzy

My recent travel schedule has had me at airports and in the air almost as much as airline crew. Since October 8, I have flown to Guadalajara and back on Continental via Houston, to Louisiana and back via Dallas/Fort Worth via American (to Baton Rouge and from New Orleans) and I’m now in Santa Barbara on United and US Airways with a change of plane in Phoenix, an itinerary I’ll be reversing on Tuesday. One more trip like this and I’ll meet myself at Denver International Airport. I will have been on a dozen flights passing through eight airports in two countries and four US states, with a total of 86 hours at home. I'm both exhausted and exhilarated. Random thoughts:

Highlights – No flight delays and minimal security lines. Free WiFi at Denver International Airport and Phoenix Skyharbor.

Low point – Having my watch stolen at the security checkpoint at Houston International Airport. I reported it, and some level of investigation was purportedly initiated. I’ll blog about it if and when the issue is resolved.

With all that, you might forgive me for being 1½ trips behind in posting.