Mexican Day of the Dead, Colorado-Style, Coming Up

Merry skeletons and plastic flowers contrast with Anglo Halloween

Right after Halloween with its spooky undertones and trick-or-treating comes El Diá de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead celebrated in Mexico, in Mexican-American communities and in parts of Central America. Actually, it is two days (November 1 and 2) and is the time when families celebrate "with" their deceased relatives by visiting cemeteries, straightening out graves, leaving bread and other favorite foods and beverages, replacing faded flowers (usually plastic, because fresh don't last) with new ones and keeping a companionable vigil that includes a merry picnic with their departed loved ones. It is a respectful day but one when happy memories are recalled.

Although the holiday is a melding of indigenous pre-Hispanic and Catholic traditions, the most distinctive iconography is of skeletons in everyday clothing and common settings. Decorating "sugar skulls" is part of the ritual. It is interesting that while Anglo Halloween traditions involve going out and getting stuff (i.e., candy) from other people, the Mexican tradition is to stay with the family, living or not, and give something to the deceased.

My husband and I fortunately happened to be in San Jose del Cabo during the Day of the Dead a few years ago, so of course, we visited the local cemetery. A display on the town plaza explained what the celebration was all about, and vendors of plastic stood set up at the cemetery gates. We walked through the graveyard, watching families perform and sensing that it was wonderful for families to remember the departed joyfully and respectfully.

I'll be right here, north of the border, for the rest of the week, but "Day of the Dead Changes, Grows" in today's Denver Post reminded me that we don't have travel from Colorado. "As it traveled north from its rural Mexican roots, the Day of the Dead has evolved from a simple Memorial Day-type family picnic to honor loved ones, into a lively public celebration of art and culture," wrote reporter Kristen Browning-Blas.

She also provided some background on the celebration and listed local places to see and get a taste of it. I think I'll try to get to the Longmont Museum & Cultural Center (right) and/or CU's Museum of Natural History to check out their displays. Longmont's collaborative exhibition was done with Ciudad Guzmán, its sister city in Mexico, and includes a series of special events, most were last week and earlier this week, but a couple, including a family celebration on November 1, are still to come. Check the museum's calendar for details.

In "Celebrating the Day of the Dead's Delicious Side" in today's San Francisco Chronicle by Gaby Carnacho, who grew up in Tijuana, who wrote, "Brightly colored tissue paper cutouts, or papel picado, decorate cemeteries as well as the homes of the deceased person's family as a signal to the soul that festivities await them on earth. The most significant offerings, though, are the food and beverages that people put on the altars; the deceased's favorite beer, candy and street foods are put on display while those keeping vigil often enjoy more traditional foods."

Maybe I'll be in Mexico or perhaps San Antonio or El Paso sometime in the future, but meanwhile, celebrations and displays right here in Colorado will hold me.

Chris Elliott Takes on Resort Fees

Where airline add-ons have gone, hotel fees have followed

Security surcharges. Fuel surcharges. Checked luggage fees. Inflight food and non-alcholic beverage fees. Surcharges for better seats. GR-R-R-R. About the only charge that has gone away is the fee for using the airplane's headset for inflight entertainment.

Some hotel fees really irk me. My top two are Internet and parking, which are free at most budget and mid-range hotel chains but often carry a hefty that charge in high-priced urban hotels. Of those, the Internet fee really frosts me. In a post called "Hotel Fees That Must Die -- and How to Kill Them," consumer advocate Chris Elliott has taken on the topic of hotel and resort surcharges. He points out that hotel occupancy has limping along through the recession. Too many properties use add-ons (sometimes automatic) to increase revenues. You would think that they would offer freebies as an incentive for guests. Occasionally, a hotel or resort will do so. A resort-style property south of Denver has a great Valentine's package that does just that.

Right now, I'm at the excellent Pines Lodge at Beaver Creek on a last-minute media rate. They had a cancelation on Friday afternoon, so my husband and I decided to stay overnight rather than fight the Saturday traffic on Interstate 70. The WiFi is free, which is the reason I'm posting this now rather than waiting until I return home later today. I don't yet know what the charge will be for mandatory valet parking.

So take Chris Elliott's advice, and question add-on fees, check your bill and complain to the manager if you need too. Hopefully, the lodging industry will get the message.

Final Farewell to Lufthansa Flights LH 480 and 481

Denver-Munich nonstops grounded for good, but Germany still courts Colorado travelers

October 28 was Black Friday for Lufthansa's one-and-a-half-year-old Munich-Denver-Munich nonstops. Denver had given Germany's airline $2 million in incentives to launch the route in March 2007 and offered to make monetary concessions if the airline would continue it. But Lufthansa spokesman Martin Riecken was quoted in the Denver Post as explaining, "It's not a flight that gives us enough revenue and benefits to keep it going." How's that for thanks?

Busy Route Not Enough for Lufthansa

You'd never know from our experience that Denver/Munich routing was not enough of a revenue-producer. My husband and I wanted desperately to fly from Denver to Munich in May 2007 to attend a wedding. First we tried redeeming MileagePlus miles for any class of service on Flights 481 (DEN-MUC) and 480 (MUC-DEN) in a two-week window wrapped around the wedding date. No luck. Then we tried a United-Lufthansa combo with whatever number of plane changes -- in the US, in Frankfurt or elsewhere in Germany. No luck. Then we tried combining flights on other Star Alliance partners. No luck. Then we tried to get affordable tickets on Lufthansa or United. No luck, unless you consider it "lucky" to find a few tickets for about $1,000 each, give or take. We didn't attend the wedding.

Germany Promoted in Denver

It was ironic that yesterday, just three days after Lufthansa wiped this wonderful flight off its timetable, German tourism representatives hosted a media lunch in Denver to promote visitation to the country. They showed enticing photographs of scenery (and infrastructure to see it better, such as this tower on Stuttgart's Killesberg, right), castles, palaces and other sites. They talked about new museums and old holiday traditions. They enthused about art, architecture and museums, and about hip nightlife and high fashion. They praised the ease of getting around via highspeed train or autobahn. It all looked wonderful. I was ready to get on a plane -- but there are now fewer flights from here to there, and I don't envision fares falling.

Schade -- which is German for "too bad" or "what a shame."

Europe is Subject New Lonely Planet Book

Photo-heavy, information-light coffee table book showcases 52 countries

Lonely Planet guidebooks are often thick and always comprehensive softcover books chockful of practical where-to, how-to, what-to information for travelers, particularly budget travelers. A few maps, illustrations and black-and-white photographs were scattered among the text pages, with a four-color photo insert or two to tart the layout up a bit. The books, subtitled "Travel Survival Kit," have become nothing less than bibles for travelers who rely on them for an incredible amount of in-depth information on countries around the globe. There's even a Lonely Planet guide to the non-country of Antarctica, the last, loneliest continent on the planet where visitation is official and scientific, cruise ship icebreaker or of a serious expedition nature, and is totally seasonal.

As noted here, BBC bought Lonely Planet a little over a year ago, and the international broadcasting and media giant lost no time in expanding the Lonely Planet brand into previously unimaginable realms. One of these is a series of hardcover coffee table books that would seem to be perfect adjuncts to a television travel series. The newest is The Europe Book: A Journey Through Every Country on the Continent. It profiles 52 European countries, touching briefly on such topics as landscape, people, the urban scene, cuisine, history and festivals. Enticing four-color photographs grace every page. A bit of the original Lonely Planet spirit survives in the sidebar listing the "essential experiences" for each country -- the kind of insider tidbit that Lonely Planet fans treasure.

The book also includes four themed essays (“Can They Do That In Public - Europe’s Outrageous Landmarks,” “Europe’s Unrecognized Nations,” “The New Europe” and “Revolutionary Ideas: Six That Changed History”), half-a-dozen suggested itineraries called "Great Journeys" and an random timeline of key events in European history and some interesting trivia. Who knew that Armenia was the first European country to adopt Christianity (301 A.D.) or that tiny Liechtenstein is the world's largest exporter of dentures?

Like 1,000 Places to See Before You Die (but bigger in format and with great pictures), The Europe Book invites travelers to tick off which countries they have visited. I have been to fewer than half. That surprised me. It wouldn't have, if I had actually never thought about how many there are now. Of course, now that I am thinking about it, the fragmentation of Europe has greaty increased the number of countries in Europe. The break-up of the Soviet Union, the dismantling of the former Yugoslavia and the splitting of the former Czechoslovakia now mean there are 18 countries where once there were three, a lopsided balance despite the reunification of two Germanys into one. Of the 52, more of two (Russia and Turkey) is in Asia and not in Europe at all, and one (Iceland) is out in the North Atlantic.

The book, subtitled "A Journey Through Every Country on the Continent," must have been a was a geographic and organizational challenge. The editors decided to segment into six regional sections. Most countries get four pages. Some of the biggies (such as England, Spain, France, Italy, Germany, Turkey, Russia ) are allotted six, while smaller city-states and principalities (Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, Andorra, San Marino, Vatican City) are covered in two pages.

I have visited nearly all the countries in the sections titled "Western Mediterranean," "Central Europe" and "British Isles & the Low Countries." I find it a bit odd to lump the four British Isles countries and three Benelux countries together in one section, because all they have in common is the North Sea -- except that Ireland doesn't touch it at all, while Germany, Denmark and Norway, which do have North Sea coastlines, are in other chapters. I've been to a few in the "Eastern Mediterranean & the Balkans" (IMO another oddball combo), none in the "Black Sea & Caucasus" and and only two of nine in "Scandinavia & Baltic Europe" -- plus Iceland's Keflavik Airport, but airports don't count. This book tells me that I have many more European nations to check off on my life list, and the gorgeous photographs illustrated why I should visit them.

Thirty-seven writers, mostly well-traveled and credentialed Lonely Planet authors, and numerous photographers contributed to The Europe Book ($40). It is the fourth in a series that also includes The Travel Book ($50), The Africa Book ($40) and The Asia Book ($40). The original LP guidebooks are for people who are planning a trip or are traveling, while this new series is for people who have traveled and want to tap into specific, I've-been-there memories and the general flavor of European countries to remind us all of the continents variety and beauty.

Fort Collins Wins Historic Preservation Honors

National Trust cites Fort Collins, Colorado's ninth honoree

The National Trust for Historic Preservation has selected Fort Collins as one of its 2010 America’s Dozen Distinctive Destinations. This northern Colorado city is the state's eighth honoree since the list was established in 2000. Previous Colorado winners are Boulder, 2000; Silverton, 2001; Georgetown, 2003 (special recognition for the Hotel de Paris, now a museum); Glenwood Springs, CO, 2004; Durango, 2007; and Crested Butte, 2008.

This year, the National Trust gives the public an opportunity to vote for a People's Choice selection. The Dozen Distinctive Destination and contenders for top choice are Bastrop, Texas; Cedar Falls, Iowa; Chestnut Hill, Pennsylvania; The Crooked Road: Virginia's Heritage Music Trail; Fort Collins, Colorado; Huntsville, Alabama; Marquette, Michigan; Sitka, Alaska; Provincetown, Massachusetts; Rockland, Maine; Simsbury, Connecticut; and St. Louis, Missouri. Right now, Marquette and Rockland are leading the polling, each with nearly 25 percent of the votes.

Fort Collins was cited for "its leadership in protecting its historic places and promoting a walkable downtown," a characteristic it shares with previous honorees.

Rail Transportation's US Future

President's proposal for rail expansion would alter US travel

I love trains. When I travel abroad, it is my favorite mode of transportation., I love the energetic bustle of big-city railroad stations and the convenience of traveling from center-city to center-city, and I certainly prefer reaching small communities by train to clogging up roadways with a costly rental car. I wish we still had decent, punctual trains in this country, and maybe it will happen in my lifetime. I was cheered by President Obama's State of the Union message last Wednesday that included the intention of awarding $8 billion in stimulus funds for development of light-rail corridors around the country and new high-speed rail in Florida. It makes sense from all perspectives -- employment, traveler convenience, the environmental benefits of mass transit.

A number of US and Canadian cities already have light rail rapid transit -- surface trains, not subways, that unclog roadways. When I changed planes in Phoenix not long ago, I saw that the city's Valley Metro rail line reaches Skyharbor Airport from both east and west. Vancouver's new SkyTrain (upper right) connects the airport with the center city. Light rail lines in Denver, Salt Lake City and Calgary do not currently reach their respective airports but hopefully will in the future. Kansas City voters rejected a north-south light rail line, but the regional transportation district is planning on using diesel-driven trains on existing tracks -- perhaps similar to the Albuquerque-Santa Fe Railrunner (lower right). We'll see.

Elsewhere in the world, a rail link from major airports to the city and from there to national and international train networks is taken for granted. Once again, the US, which pretends to be so enlightened and so advanced, lags far behind. I just hope that Washington a-ginners who were fixating on deconstructing proposed health care/insurance reform don't get their talons into rail transportation improvements too.

Luggage Pilferage

No valuables taken, but petty theft is annoying and (again) shows travelers' vulnerability

Yesterday afternoon, I flew from Houston to Denver. Two bright red TSA-approved locks were on my checked bag’s two biggest zipper compartments when I checked in. When I got home, I saw that the bag sported only one lock.

Is it possible that I didn’t snap one lock completely, and that it opened and fell off in transit? Yes, of course. Is it possible that the small bottle of tequila in a sturdy little cardboard box given to all somehow fell out of the middle of my bag? Unlikely. It could have been either a TSA screener or perhaps a baggage handler, or for all I know, a space alien who likes tequila and used its super powers to find mine.

According to Aero-News, a TSA screener at Newark International reportedly was recently arrested for trying to sell pilfered items on eBay. I’m not saying that my little tequila, given to all convention attendees, will end up in an on-line auction, but I’ll bet it ends up in someone’s drink -- or simply as a straight-from-the-bottle nip for the needy to make a boring job tolerable.

Newsday reported that TSA spokeswoman Lara Uselding had said that 465 TSA officers (0.4 percent of the agency's workers) have been terminated for theft since May 1, 2003. The odds are pretty good that nothing will be swiped from checked bags or from carry-ons during the shoes off/jackets off/laptop out/X-ray/metal detector pre-flight gauntlet passengers endure, but when it happens, it's annoying at best and devastating at worst. When expensive electronics (including laptops and other communication devices with private information) or jewelry is taken, it can be be more than the loss of something as inconsequential as a small bottle of tequila.

Am I going to report it? No. It's not worth the bother. The TSA and/or airline baggage-handling operations seem to be the gift that keeps on taking.