Egypt's Factory Stores: Rip-Off or Real?

The cynical visitor eyes souvenirs in Egypt

I have no delusions that the acres of small reproduction pyramids, sphinxes, Nefertiti heads, cats, lions and assorted other examples of Egyptiana peddled aggressively at every tourist attraction in the country actually were made in Egypt -- and I suspect that all but the most naive tourist knows that this souvenir schlock is made elsewhere. "Elsewhere" is most likely China.

The "factories" and "demonstrations" that end virtually every motorcoach tour day are presented as if all fine handicrafts are made right there. Because tour guides get a commission on sales whenever they deliver a busload of tourists, we were forced to visit the papyrus demonstration in a modern shopping center in Alexandria, a carpet school in Saqqara and an alabaster factory near the Valley of the Kings. Mercifully, we dodged the perfume-factory bullet.

The carpet weaving school is billed as a place where young girls are taught weaving. We saw men sitting at a handful of looms in the basement of the carpet factory in Saqqara without a girl or woman in sight. Upstairs was a room filled with carpets. It was not the only carpet factory in Saqqara either. In the so-called alabaster factory near Luxor, three barefoot men sat outdoors on mats and chipped away at alabaster, demonstrating various stages in the process of crafting something out of the raw stone. Inside was a large sales room whose walls were lined with objets d'alabastre. I saw chess sets shamlessly labeled "Made in Pakistan." I bought a little alabaster cat anyway, just as a souvenir of the day.

Souvenir Stand Near the Pyramids and Sphinx (Giza)

Stall in the Khan al-Khalili Market (Cairo)

Souvenir Stand at The Citadel (Alexandria)

Papyrus Making (Alexandria)

Owner or manager stopped me from taking any more photos

Carpet Weaving School (Saqqara)

Alabaster Factory Near the Valley of Kings (Luxor)

Another Ancient Egyptian Tomb Discovered

Saqqara yields another treasure from antiquity

Just a few weeks ago, I wrote a post connecting an upcoming King Tut exhibit at the Denver Art Museum with the discovery of the tomb of an official called Archae Amun-em-Opet near Luxor, far up the Nile, that dates back to 1372-1355 B.C. Now comes word of another significant discovery, the tomb of a royal scribe named Ptahmes in the reign of pharaohs Seti I and Ramses II (1203-1186 B.C.). This recently discovery was made at Saqqara south of Cairo, whose pyramids predate the famous ones at Giza. In fact, Egypt's first pyramid, the Step Pyramid of Djoser (2667 to 2648 B.C) is located there, as are earlier tombs, low bench-like edifices called mastabas. When I visited Egypt last year, Saqqara was on the itinerary -- and archaeological excavations were clearly going on. The top four images are mine; the bottom one is courtesy of Egypt's Supreme Council or Antiquities.

There's an interesting backstory to this new discovery, which is actually a rediscovery. Nineteenth century artifact hunters found the tomb, took the greatest treasures and moved on. It didn't take all that long for desert sands to cover the tomb. Archaeologists from the University of Cairo found it and been excavating it. Archaeologists have discovered long hallways and chapels in the tomb and are anticipating finding the main chamber and hopefully a sarcophagus containing a mummy that the original discoverers reported seeing but didn't take. Click here for more information about the tomb.

For visitors, Saqqara is refreshing. Fewer visitors, fewer buses, fewer hawkers at the entrance to the site.

Images of Egypt: Upper Nile Valley Antiquities

Legendary temples and tombs draw hordes of visitors, scholars and archaeologists from around the globe

Egypt is a country of stone and sand, bisected by the green ribbon of the fertile Nile Valley. While the famous pyramids and the Great Sphinx are in Giza just outside of Cairo, the famous temples and tombs are hundreds of miles upstream along the river between Aswan and Luxor. Abu Simbel, south of the High Dam at Aswan, was rescued from obliteration under Nile Lake waters by UNESCO in the 1960s. Downstream from (that is, north of) the High Dam are numerous sites, including the incomparable Valley of the Kings near Luxor.

The history, legends, chronology of the kings and their dynasties, and other information are available elsewhere, so please just enjoy a sampling of images from my recent trip -- experiences I shared with thousands of other visitors from all over the world.

Abu Simbel

Kom Ombo near Aswan

Edfu Temple

Luxor Temple

Temple of Hatshepsut

Colossi of Memnon

The Valley of the Kings

Limited permission to photograph in the exquisitely painted tombs that are tunneled into mountains on the west side of the Nile; as elsewhere excavations are ongoing

Karnak Temple at Luxor

Farewell to the Upper Nile Valley

Aspen Area Hotels at the Base of the Slopes and the Peak of Design

Sky in Aspen and the Viceroy in Snowmass display high style

Just 24 hours in the Aspen area gave the the opportunity to stay at the  super-cool Sky Hotel at the base of Aspen Mountain and attend a reception at another, newer Viceroy Hotel at the base of Snowmass. I'd been to events and had drinks at the Sky before but never stayed there, and I had a hardhat tour of the Viceroy last summer and popped in quickly to look at the lobby last December but never spent any time there. Both of these hotels abound with imaginative design and high style.

Sky Hotel

The Sky Hotel at the foot of Aspen Mountain is famous around town 39 Degrees, its swank, sophisticated lounge, great cocktails, light bites and desserts, huge fireplace and comfy couches and chairs, making it a popular après-ski spot. It's quieter in the summer (at least at the beginning of the summer season), and I didn't have time to linger in the lounge or the adjacent patio. Instead, I checked in for one night and headed straight for my third-floor room before I had to zip out again for a meeting.

The mattress was comfortable, the pillows abundant and the bed linens smooth.

Nice work area with well-lit desk, plenty of outlets, a comfortable swivel chair and a retro ski-fashion poster to gaze at.

Nothing unusual about the small bathroom's standard layout -- tub/shower on one wall, sink and vanity on the other and toilet between them opposite from the door. But quality amenities, more good lighting and soft towels are really what count.

Plush animal-print bathrobes and slippers (complete with price tag to underscore that they are available for purchase) are part of the Sky Hotel's cool factor.

Instead of a mini-bar, there's clear drawer to tempt guests with snacks. I wasn't tempted, because I was heading for a that cocktail reception at the Viceroy. And then, I checked out the next morning.

Viceroy Hotel

When I was in the Aspen area last summer, I was given a hardhat tour of the Viceroy Hotel in Snowmass' new Base Village development. The hotel was to be completed in time for the 2009-10 ski season. And it was. Without a camera, I nevertheless took a quick look at the lobby in December.

A group meeting in Aspen last week held a cocktail reception at this new hotel that has set a new standard for Snowmass Village. In winter, its location at the bottom of the Snowmass ski runs makes it a busy place. On a weeknight before Memorial Day weekend, our group had the place virtually to ourselves for a terrific cocktail party with great drinks, bubbly, wine and beer and first-rate hors d'oeuvres. It was crowded and excessively noisy, as these events inevitably are, so I took only few pictures when I could grab a clear shot of something.

Don't let the one person sitting on a banquette near the front entrance give you the impression that it was uncrowded or quiet in the adjacent spaces. The back wall is a line of aspen trunks upon which the initials of the organization partying there were projected.

Well-stocked and well-lit back bar. The front bar starts in the lobby and continues into the lounge, an interesting, seamless design.

The glass-walled wine storage unit serves as a room divider.

The catering staff put on a splendid spread, but I arrived too late to shoot most of the food before it got picked over and was no longer pretty. It was very food, however, with small pizzas, salads, Mexican items, sushi, a carving station and more -- something for everyone.Below is a cheese selection, and below that is the dessert table.

With a sampling like this, I hope to get back to the Viceroy and get a feel for what it's really like when there are overnight guests and no big private party occupying the lobby level. From the website's home page, click on "Photo Gallery" for the hotel's fine images of its public spaces and accommodations.

Carousel of Happiness Turning in Nederland

Laid-back mountain town's great new attraction is worth a visit

Nederland, just 17 miles west of Boulder, retains a reputation for being a hippie town. Yesterday its new era as a happy town began when the Carousel of Happiness started to turn, the calliope started to play and the face of the community broke into a smile. Yesterday's grand opening brought praise for carousel creator Scott Harrison from national and Colorado carousel aficionado's organization officers and from the mayor, and from Harrison for all the individuals, foundations and local businesses whose generosity enabled him to finish a 25-year project. 

The backstory is fantastic. In 1985, Scott Harrison, a Nederland resident, began carving and handpainting carousel animals, and a year later, bought and set about restoring the workings of an old merry-go-round that long ago graced the Saltair amusement park near Salt Lake City. Since then, with determination, inspiration and idealism, Harrison kept carving and painting animals, restoring the mechanism, and building an energy-smart, 12-sided structure to house it. Over the years, Harrison’s dream became Nederland’s dream. A cadre of dedicated local volunteers joined him to help the project along, investing sweat both equity and financial support.

Why a carousel? When Harrison was in Vietnam with the Marine Corps in Vietnam, his sister sent him small music box that played Chopin. It had a clear side so that the mechanism was visible while the music played. Coming back from patrols, the mechanism and the music were an antidote to what he had seen. The Vietnam vet has since sought to make the world a more peaceful place. In 1975, against all odds, he and his wife, Ellen Moore, founded and co-directed Amnesty International’s Urgent Action Network to respond to genocides and other human crises around the globe. It now has tens of thousands of members worldwide.

His efforts are now more community-focused. Nederland artist George Blevins, whose angels decorate the carousel house, says of his friend’s upbeat project, “The carousel is one more insane dream in a crazy world. Now let’s finish this and do world peace.”

When my husband and I attended a fundraiser foe the carousel, he bought $20 worth of raffle tickets and won a coveted first ride. With warm childhood memories of Connecticut carousels, I invoked spousal privilege and asked for the first ride. Here I am, in the blue cap, waiting for the first tide to commence.

The day made for one warm, wonderful party, with free entertainment by a local marimba band and free Italian sausages, hot dogs and popcorn. A Native American group came to chant, drum, dance and celebrate with Scott Harrison. Hundreds of people gathered around, greeting old friends and making new ones -- and drinking in the atmosphere of this handsome carousel and the grand opening festivities when west side of the Caribous Shopping Center, where the carousel is located, was turned into one big party area..

The Carousel of Happiness operates daily during the warm months, and sequestered in a well insulated, energy-efficient carousel house, it will operate in winter too -- at least on some/most weekends and holidays. Rides are just $1. Don't miss the great gift shop either.

Images of Egypt: Cairo Street Scenes

A regular tourist's glimpse at Cairo street life

The view from any motorcoach window is of an exotic, vibrant city. There's nothing unusual or privileged in these images, which were all taken with a point-and-shoot on common tourist routes from venue to venue. Excuse the occasional glare, reflection or shaky focus. Of course, there is a modern Cairo too and many citizens who go about their business in Western garb, but these images are more interesting and more, well, Egyptian.

Along the Nile

And no, this drive-by didn't make me homesick

I Fought Jet Lag and the Jet Lag Won

Cairo to Colorado: nine time zones and an 11 1/2-hour flight just to reach New York

For the record, I rarely have serious jet lag flying eastbound across the Atlantic. It's always an overnight flight with a morning arrival on the other side, and whether it's a short or long flight, and I sleep well on airplanes (especially if I've had a bit of wine with dinner on board). More to the point, I'm excited to land someplace new or someplace I've been before and love. The adrenalin kicks in upon landing, I stay awake all day, go to sleep the first night and wake up my first full day wherever, more or less adjusted.

Westbound is another story entirely. Departure is during the day (usually late morning), arrival on the East Coast is sometime in the afternoon and, now that I live in Colorado, the day stretches even longer because I have another flight and two more time zones.

In the past I've tried:

• Melatonin - No significant effect on me.
• No Jet-Lag pills (right), an over-the-counter, homeopathic formulation that I buy at Changes in Latitude, a local travel store. It seemed to work a little better, but I forgot to get some this time.
• Flying from the US West Coast, which means for longer flights, which is even better for my body clock on the eastbound portion but makes the westbound trip even longer, because I have to backtrack one time zone.

I have not tried:

• Sleeping pills, mainly because on principle, I don't take sleeping pills on land, let alone in the air. I'd rather be tired than drugged.
• The anti-jet leg lag diet, because it's complicated and requires a multi-day regimen of meal manipulation.

This time, flying from the West Coast was not an option, because Egyptair only flies from New York. And I rejected melatonin, which I have at home, because it doesn't work all that well for me and besides, I recently read a post on Upgrade: Travel Better about a traveler who was jailed in Dubai for possession of of melatonin. Egypt and Dubai are not the same place, law-wise, but they might be on the same Moslem wave length. If it worked better for me, I might have put some in an aspirin bottle, but it doesn't, so I didn't.

My epic return journey from Cairo to Colorado on Tuesday, February 10, was as follows:

• 7:30 a.m.: Departure from hotel in Cairo.
• 8:00 a.m. +/-: Arrival at airport to stand in long line for baggage X-ray/metal detector just to get into the terminal. Once inside, long line to check bag and get boarding pass. Long line for X-ray of carry-ons and stroll through metal detector. Short line for Egyptian passport control. Wait for boarding.
• 10:15 a.m.: After a third X-ray/metal detector process that included TSA requirements (shoes off, laptop out of case, discard bottled water except that sealed and presented with a receipt from an airport shop) and another presentation of the boarding pass to an official stationed on the jetway, boarded the plane for the scheduled departure of Egyptair 985 from Cairo.
• 3:15 p.m. Eastern Time: Arrival at JFK International Airport. Mercifully short line for immigration, bag landed on the carousel fairly quickly, walk through customs and on to Delta terminal.
• 6:55 p.m. Eastern Time: Departure of Delta 167.
• 10:46 p.m. Mountain Time: Arrival in Denver, which meant that I got to the main terminal and baggage claim a few minutes after the 10:18/10:25 RTD bus left for Boulder. I toughed it out for the bus an hour later. As I walked toward the bus, whose door was open, my water bottle fell out of the side pocket out of my day pack, which I had over one shoulder. I bent over to retrieve the water bottle without smashing my laptop against the concrete, and when I stood up, the bus was pulling out.
• 11:35 p.m.: I gave up on RTD and took SuperShuttle, which dropped me off at my door an hour later.

My failed Wednesday, February 11, attempt at combating jet lag, which is the point of this post, involved waking up at 3:30 a.m. after less than four hours of sleep, staying up all day even if not hitting on all cylinders, attending a media event in Denver (I didn't drive and I didn't drink) and going to bed at 8:45 p.m., shortly after I got home. Result: Another short night (I woke up at about the same time on Thursday, February 12 but took three lengthy naps in the course of the day and evening. I woke up in the wee hours again today (Friday, February 13), but at least I've overcome my sleep debt, even if I'm not over jet lag yet.

I am trying to draw a conclusion or learn a lesson from this, but so far, I haven't succeeded. I do know that seeing Egypt's incomparable antiquities was worth the jet-lag misery. And at the end of the travel day, that's all that matters.