Air Fares & Add-on Fees: Up, Up & Away

The cost of flying Frontier, American, Delta and United continues to climb

Like a jet plane soaring to cruising altitude, the cost of flying continues to climb. "Crisis" is the word most often heard in airline circles. The latest news, tough on travelers but necessary given the unchecked inflation of aviation fuel, includes:

Frontier Airlines, which is already operating under bankruptcy protection, became the latest carrier to jump on the second-bag-charge bandwagon. Just before the long Memorial Day weekend, the Denver-based carrier announced that as of June 10, it will charge $15 per second checked bag costs $25. Also, the surcharge for oversize and/or overweight bags will rise from $50 to $75, and the cost of bringing a pair of antlers climbs from $75 to $100. Don't laugh. With a strong presence in the Mountain States, Frontier flies a lot of hunters -- and if successful, they like to bring their trophies home. Frontier’s mileage club members, active military duty personnel and people who purchase tickets before June 10 will be exempt from the extra bag charge, but presumably not the other increases.

The fee for unaccompanied minors aged five through 14 rises on two carriers. American is increasing it from $75 to $100 each way. Delta, which until now charged $50 for nonstops and $100 for connecting flights, is leveling all fees at $100, connection or no connection.

Pet policies and fees are changing as well -- and not favorably for animal owners. American and Delta are upping the fee for bringing pets into the cabin to $100 each way, up from $80 and $75, respectively. Checking a pet into the cargo hold rises to $150 each way on American, up from $100, and $200 on Delta, up from $150. Frontier is barring pets from airplane cabins altogether starting June 10. I wonder whether flying a live, crated animal will cost the same as a pair of antlers.

American, Delta and United are raising their fares by as much as $60 roundtrip for flights of more than 1,500 miles. People who track such things note that it will be the big airlines' 12th successive increase this year. Meanwhile, big-box retailers are promoting home, garden and patio enhancements for those who have thrown in the 2009 travel towel and are planning a "staycation" instead.

Southwest to Bid for Frontier

Leading no-frills, low-fare carrier to bid for Denver-based Frontier. Keep fingers crossed

Frontier Airlines is in bankruptcy protection right now. Republic Airways Holdings seemed poised to take over the Denver-based carrier, its convenient A-Gates at Denver International Airport and, hopefully, bring it out of bankputcy while retaining Coloradans loyalty for this home-grown carrier. A just just-released news from Southwest Airlines indicates that it too is now in the running. Republic indicated that it planned to operate Frontier independently. Whether Southwest would do so is an unknown, but its track record is fantastic. In the best of all worlds as I see it, Southwest's bid would be successful, and that company would run Frontier but under its original colors and with those clever "spokesanimals" on the tail.

Below Southwest's just-out press release as it relates to customers, with the section for the investment/financial community deleted:

Title: Southwest Airlines Developing Bid Proposal in Frontier Airlines Bankruptcy Court Proceeding
Date: 7/30/2009 1:20:00 PM

Low-Fare Carrier Seeks to Acquire Frontier Airlines

Southwest Airlines (NYSE: LUV)
confirmed today that the carrier is preparing a bid to acquire Denver-based
Frontier Airlines, which will be sold at auction in bankruptcy court next
month. The carrier has submitted a nonbinding proposal in accordance with the
bidding procedures established in the U.S. Bankruptcy Court for the Southern
District of New York. The bid is worth a minimum of $113.6 million, which is
in excess of the bid currently filed by Republic Airways.

Submission of a nonbinding proposal gives Southwest an opportunity to
engage with Frontier in the due diligence required to determine the scope of a
binding proposal to be submitted by the court's Aug. 10, 2009, deadline.

"We are excited about the opportunity to submit a bid," said Gary Kelly,
Southwest's Chairman of the Board, President, and CEO. "We see a strong fit
between our Company cultures, a mutual commitment to high quality Customer
Service, and similar entrepreneurial roots."

A successful acquisition of Frontier Airlines will allow Southwest to
expand its network with its legendary low fares, add jobs into Southwest, and
boost competition in Denver and other cities. Southwest is a qualified
investor and is still preparing its proposal; therefore, it is premature to
comment on the specifics at this point.

To view a Q&A with a Southwest Airlines Executive Vice President Corporate
Services and Corporate Secretary Ron Ricks, please visit:
http://www.blogsouthwest.com/blog/southwest-bids-frontier-airlines.

Frontier filed for bankruptcy court protection in April 2008. On June 22,
2009, Republic Airways submitted a bid to purchase Frontier for $108.8
million.

After 38 years of service, Southwest Airlines offers a reliable product
with exemplary Customer Service. Southwest Airlines is the most productive
airline in the sky and offers Customers a comfortable traveling experience
with all premium leather seats and plenty of legroom. Southwest recently
updated its gate areas and improved its boarding procedure to make flying
Southwest Airlines even more convenient and simple. Southwest Airlines
currently serves 66 cities in 33 states, and announced service to Boston
Logan, which begins Aug. 16, 2009, and to Milwaukee, which begins Nov. 1,
2009. Southwest currently operates more than 3,300 flights a day and has more
than 35,000 Employees systemwide.

Intrusive New Airport Security Sceening

Explicit "full body scan" in place at six major US airports, including DIA

The Transportation Security Administration is at it again with an invasive new screening process. Denver International Airport (starting yesterday), Phoenix's Sky Harbor International Airport, Los Angeles International, New York's JFK International Airport, Baltimore-Washington International and Albuquerque International Sunport have installed L-3 Communications' millimeter-wave screening devices. These $158,000 machines bounce radio waves off the body to produce what has been described as "a graphic, whole-body image." While it is designed to reveal weapons and explosives that people might hide on their persons, it actually produces a controversial anatomically revealing image that is shockingly intrusive and invasive.

In a piece called "Airport Rolls Out Full-Body Scanning," Denver Post reporter Jeffrey Leib asked about travelers' legitimate privacy concerns:

"Travelers who do not want to submit to millimeter-wave screening can opt
for a pat-down search instead, [David] Bassett, [TSA's federal security director
in Denver] said. The new technology is 'less invasive' than the pat down,
he said. 'Some people don't want to be touched.'... To deal with privacy concerns, TSA is offering protections on whole-body scanning, including blurring the faces on images of passengers being screened, examining the images in a remote room and offering no possibility for images to be stored, printed, transmitted or reproduced, Bassett said.

"Whole-body imaging 'is an extremely high invasion of privacy,' although
TSA's effort to ensure that images are never made public is 'commendable,' said John Soma, a University of Denver law professor and executive director of the
Privacy Foundation. 'The compliance level has to be extremely high,' Soma said
of TSA's need to adhere to its rules in order to protect passengers' privacy. A
sign at the entrance of the millimeter-wave machine at DIA tells passengers to
'Remove everything from your pockets before entering. This includes all paper,
plastic items, pens and wallets.'

"As a passenger stands in the machine, it takes 2 seconds for the image to
be generated and 10 to 12 seconds for a screener in another room to interpret
the scan. On Wednesday, TSA employees stood in the machine to demonstrate its
capabilities. In a tiny, closed room at the back of the checkpoint, screener
Bill Whitlock scanned the image that appeared on his computer screen. It was
graphic and detailed, and the face was blurred. A shirt button, a belt buckle
and underwire in a bra were visible. Whitlock used a two-way radio to tell
another screener stationed at the millimeter-wave machine that the image had
been reviewed and the person could exit the machine. A sign on the door to the
small screening room says, 'Warning: Following items prohibited beyond this
point. — cellphones — video cameras — image-capturing devices. '

"Bassett said millimeter-wave screening will complement other technologies
already installed at checkpoints, including explosive-trace-detection portals,
or 'puffers,' that blow jets of air over a passenger's body and analyze air
samples for explosive residue. 'The puffer is sniffing; this is seeing,' Bassett
said of the millimeter-wave technology."

For a PG-13 version of how the system works, click here and follow the obvious links. The videos seem to be L-3 Communications', so they appear quite innocuous. The device works quickly and could, in theory, speed up the security process, but checking in has become such a long and tedious process that gaining a little time per passenger seems a high price to pay for this assult on personal privacy.

There are unpleasant side effects too. In addition to an intrusive new system inflicted on any one of us card-carrying Americans, our government now abuses our foreign visitors both coming and going. We fingerprint and photograph them when they enter the country as if they were under arrest, and we now can subject them them to a revealing full-body scan when they leave. Did I mention that this millimeter-wave scanning device is also being sold to "justice centers" (i.e., courthouses and jails).

Hotel Review Sites: Useful or Misleading?

Thoughts about hired reporters vs. "volunteers" who post about travel

A few months ago, I needed a last-minute hotel/motel room in Santa Monica. I foolishly booked online without doing due diligence and found myself trapped in the Pacific Sands Motel, which I have described to friends as the "worst motel in the country." I blogged about here. Had I read the traveler-generated reviews on, say, TripAdvisor.com before booking, I might have suspected that it is a pit. But then again, when I looked later, I saw some positive write-ups that might not have deterred me. I've always suspected that some of the good reviews of bad places (and defensive comments to negative reviews) were plants.

Pauline Frommer, whose budget travel genes are as pure as Prince Charles's to the English throne, recently addressed that very topic, "Some marketing folks spend their time posting bogus reviews for the hotels that hire them. The practice of 'buzz marketing' has now become so widespread that TripAdvisor has recently started posting warnings on reviews it thinks may be fake. (I doubt very much they’ll be able to catch more than a small fraction of the fake reviews.)"

She went on to describe Oyster.com, which focuses only on hotels and, more significantly, "sends out a small army of young journalists (right) to write reviews....[who] post numerous pictures, crawl around on the floor looking for scuff marks and cigarette burns (or at least they say they do in their posts) and most importantly, compare and contrast the properties in an informed way."

Frommer praises their energy and accepts their objectivity, but she cautions that prices and price categories are the new site's major weakness. For instance, in examining the listings and reviews in New York, with which she is up-to-date familiar, she finds several properties misplaced, pricewise, and also believes that the averages were calculated in January and February, "the two cheapest months of the year." She added, "The reviewers also seem to be so focused on what’s going on in the hotel that they tend to ignore a key factor in picking where to stay: location. The amenities and charms of particular neighborhoods over others are glossed over lightly on the site." That is directly to contrary to the dreadful Pacific Sands Motel across from the Santa Monica pier, whose location for many people trumps its abundant flaws.

From where I sit in a fly-over state, a glaring flaw that still currently exists is its extreme geographic limitation: currently Aruba, Dominican Republic, Jamaica, Las Vegas ("coming soon"), Miami and New York. Three Caribbean destinations and three mainland cities. That's it.

My travel plans include none of the above, and when I go to New York, my favorite and most economical accommodation is the Hotel Fold-Out Couch at a friend's place. Still, Pauline Frommer's recommendation, even with caveats, carries considerable weight, so I share it here.

Southwest Will Win Friends with Two-Bag Allowance

Low-cost carrier retains traditional checked-bag policies

On the heels of American Airlines' ill-conceived decision to begin levying a $15 charge for the first checked bag for most passengers and several carrier's recently instituted second-bag fee of $25, Southwest just sent out the following statement, which I quote in its entirety:

"Today's New York Times story on American Airlines' plan to charge for all checked luggage included a reference to Southwest Airlines that said, 'Other major American airlines, including Southwest Airlines, said Wednesday that they were considering matching the fee.' That is not true. The next line quotes a Southwest spokesperson saying, 'We're doing everything we can do to boost revenue, but it's not our goal to nickel and dime our customers.' That is true. We want to assure you that Southwest Airlines still allows you to check up to two free bags when you travel with us, and has no plans to change that. You can still count on Southwest Airlines to provide high quality air travel at a low fare, without a lot of extra fees. We look forward to seeing you onboard very soon. (And bring your luggage!)"

As I noted in my blog post yesterday that included news of this American Airlines "revenue enchancer," I believe that this surcharge will backfire and many passengers will avoid American whenever they can. Fifteen dollars is not a fortune, but for the proverbial family of four on a tight budget, that additional $60 each way to check just one bag apiece, the new fee can make or break a trip. Now, perhaps driving becomes a more reasonable option -- and so is staying home and enjoying what has come to be called a "staycation."

The entire issue of surcharges set travel consumer advocate Christopher Elliott off on a recent rant. He wrote "Five Airline Fees That Make Absolutely No Sense Whatsover" -- and that was before American decided to impose a fee for even the first checked bag.

Airline & Airport News

American to Charge $15 for First Checked Bag

American Airlines is about to charge more and provide less. The carrier is culling 75 aircraft from its fleet, which will definitely mean an 11-12 percent reduction in capacity and probably result in the elimination and not just reduction of service to some current cities. Additional bad news is that anyone booking flights after June 15 will paying $15 for the first checked bag -- unless s/he is flying full-fare economy, first class or business-first; is flying on a government or military fare or active military; has reached premium status on America's AAdvantage frequent flier program, or is connecting to/from a codeshare flight not operated by American. Plus, of course, American is also charging most passengers $25 for the second checked bag on all flights. The airline is adding or inreasing other surcharges. It's probably just as well that American is cutting capacity, because travelers will probably avoid the airline if there are options -- unless of course other carriers fall into line. These decisions are not sitting any better with employees than with customers. Employees reportedly picketed the airline's Fort Worth headquarters during annual shareholder meeting.

Singapore Airlines Converting Airbus 340-500 to All-Business Class

And for a glimpse at how the other half flies -- the "small half," that is -- consider Singapore Airlines' conversion of its A340-500s to and from the US, where front-of-the-plane luxury will soon be all-of-the-plane luxury as the carrier converts all five aircraft to all business class. The airline just inaugurated nonstop flights to Singapore's Changi Airport (SIN) from Newark International Airport (EWR) three times a week, which will increase to daily service by the end of June. It also flies LAX-SIN and SFO-SIN and will becomne the first carrier with all-business class transpacific service. Cabins are configured with just 100 30-inch-wide leather seats that convert into full-flat beds, with singles by the windows and two in the century of this wide-body aircraft. (In a three-class configuration, this plane can carry up to 313 passengers, which gives you an idea of just how much space each business class passenger has.)

This all-business class service includes new menus served restaurant-style and a new Passenger Corner area for socializing, drinks and snacks -- plus an enhanced inflight entertainment system. Passengers can now plug in their iPods, iPhones (for audio and video content only) and USB flash drives to view content on the system’s 15-inch-screen. Passengers on these flights won't be charged for checking bags.

British Airways to Upgrade JFK Facilities

Beginning next month, British Airways is also doing right by its front-cabin fliers as it furbishes its ground facilities at New York's JFK International Airport to the tune of $30 million. The 18-month project will enhance the check-in experience for for premium fliers with a dedicated curbside drop-off area for First and Executive Club Gold passengers; an upgraded check-in area for Club World and Executive Club Silver customers, and the renovation of lounges to the standards set at London's Heathrow Airport's new Terminal 5. Let's hope that the baggage handling system does not echo the problems when the new terminal at Heathrow opened in March, which I reported on here. After that fiasco, I am amazed that BA has the wherewithal to redo its JFK facility, but then again, with the strong pound and the weak dollar, it's a good deal for the airline now. The renewed JFK facility will aiming at Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification.

Southwest Announces More Denver Flights

In addition to new Denver flights services announced earlier, Southwest Airlines is adding three daily nonstop roundtrips between Denver and San Francisco and three daily nonstop roundtrips between Denver and Omaha. These new flights begin September 2.

Mesa Airlines Subsidiary to Cut Service to 16 Communities

By June 30, it will no longer be possible to fly Air Midwest to Lewisburg, WV; DuBois and Franklin, PA; Athens, GA; Ely, NV.; Merced and Visalia, CA; Prescott and Kingman, AZ.; Farmington, NM; Columbia, Joplin and Kirksville, MO.; Grand Island and McCook, NB.; and Little Rock, AR. That's because parent company, Mesa Airlines, is shutting down this commuter subsidiary. Keep in mind that Air Midwest is not the same carrier as Midwest Airlines, which last time I looked, was still flying.

Continental Inaugurates Cleveland-Paris Nonstops

Tomorrow is the first day first day of Continental's new seasonal nonstop flights beteween its Cleveland hub (CVG) and Paris -- that's France, not Texas where Continental is headquartered. Continental will use Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG); Continental already flies Cleveland-London but utilizes Gatwick rather than Heathrow. The CVG-CDG flight will operate daily through September 1 -- just before Labor Day.

Delta and Northwest to Merge -- Probably

I've avoided posting items about mergers of major US carriers, because other engagements have been called off -- i.e., Delta-US Airways last year; America West-USAir in 2005, a merger that occurred in 2006 to create US Airways; United-US Airways in 2000. However, it looks as if Delta and Northwest will indeed the knot -- though exactly when is still a question mark and what it will be called has also not yet been announced. What will it mean? Other than a joint pre-merger website, perhaps eventually fewer flights, even though they claim that it will create a "premier global airline" and "is a merger based on addition, not subtraction, and it will open a world of opportunities for customers and employees."

China Earthquake Relief Donations Net Mileage Plus Credits

United Mileage Plus members who contribute $50 online or more through the American Red Cross's China Earthquake Relief Fund will receive a one-time 500-mile bonus. In order to receive the mileage credit, you need to forward your electronic receipt from the American Red Cross to ChinaRelief-Miles@united.com.

Frontier's Larry the Lynx Commercial Wins an Emmy

There nust be something about airliners' tails....

Back in airlines' bright, shiny and profitable days ( i.e., the '70s) and when they sought to attract the traveling businessman with slightly provacative commercials, Continental Airlines ran a television commercial that claimed,

"We really move our tails for you.

We make your every wish come true.

Fly Continental Airlines.

We really move our tails for you."

The follow-up described Continental planes, in their former livery (right), as "proud birds with golden tails." Ah, the fantasy of shapely young stewardesses aiming to please.

Fast-forward to the 21st century, when more overtly sexy commercials fill the airwaves (the current Cadillac commercial presented ad nauseum during the Tour de France), but even the most clueless creative department won't pretend that air travel today is sexy.

An ad campaign for Denver-based Frontier Airlines, which is about to become part of the Republic Airways group (but hopefully will retain its own identity), has been running an ad campaign that is cute, clever and memorable. Talking animals on the tails of Frontier planes extol the virtues of Frontier, and one of them is now a regional Emmy winner.

The honored ad features Larry the Lynx (right) and Jack the Rabbit, two of the "spokesanimals" adorning the tails of Frontier's planes, who explain that the airline has switched to leather seats. Larry adds that Frontier doesn't have a cow its planes, because "It would be creepy." Click here to see the Emmy-winning commercial.

Rebirth of Snowcat Skiing at Irwin Lodge -- Hopefully

Once the largest snowcat skiing venue in the US, Irwin Lodge might come out of mothballs

From 1986 to 2002, the Irwin Lodge off the Kebler Pass Road 23 miles from Crested Butte was the country biggest and best-known backcountry skiing operations. A 24-room lodge (below) located in a former mining camp accommodated overnight guests in rustic comfort and great congeniality. Sublime skiing on 600 to 700 inches of snow per year within a permit area of 1,600 acres with a vertical of up to 2,100 feet per run made for memorable experiences. When the previous operator pulled out of the backcountry business in 2002, the lodge was put on the market for $3.95 million. No sale. Now, a glimmer of resurrection is on the horizon.

Alan Bernholtz, Town Council member of six years, mayor of Crested Butte, founder of and senior guide for Crested Butte Mountain Guides, co-founder of the Crested Butte Avalanche Center, activist and indefatigable organizer of and volunteer at community events, has established Irwin Backcountry Guides LLC in the hopes of starting operation for the winter 2009-10 for extremely limited guided snowcat day skiing and snowboarding. You can read the USFS letter inviting comments to this proposal by click here. Bernoltz has already made some modifications to his original applications to comply with initial US Forest Service requests and is awaiting approval for to set up service for the coming winter. From a distance, the lodge (below) appears in good shape.

As solid as the lodge looks from a distance, bringing it back into operating condition after seven winters at 10,700 feet in the Colorado Rockies is daunting. The good news is that the roof appears largely intact, in in the great scheme of things, it probably is. However, a closeup reveals the toll that seven winters have taken on the cedar siding, doors and windows. "No trespassing" signs abound, and pink plastic tape surrounds the property, so a micro-inspection is not possible. Locals have told me that all or most of the furnishings are gone, and that the inside would need a lot of work to make it habitable.

Irwin Backcountry Guides has reportedly rehabilitated a cabin on the property to use as a warming hut and perhaps lunch spot for day visitors. I think the cabin below with its spiffy adjacent outhouse must be it. This cabin nestles a couple of hundred feet below the main lodge.

The initial permit application is for just 10 skiers or riders per day, but the buzz in town swirls around the possibility of eventual heli-skiing operations at the Irwin Lodge site. I see two results if that is approved: the lodge would have to be massively rehabilitated and a lot of townsfolk who treasure open backcountry access will be massively pissed, especially if the operation is aimed at attracting the kind of deep-pocketed clientele that can afford heli-skiing.

Meanwhile, there is not yet dedicated contact information for Irwin Backcountry Guides, but you can certainly reach them via Crested Butte Mountain Guides, P.O, Box 1718, Crested Butte, Colorado 81224; 970-349-5430.

Flight Attendant's Tips for Dealing with Baggage Hassles

Airlines' second bag fee causes flyers to rethink what they take and how they pack

Yesterday, in considering traveling to places that are dangerous or have policies travels might find abhorrent, I rhetorically asked, "to go or not to go?" James Wysong, whose day job is flying for a living, now asks, "check your luggage -- or not?" in "Check it Out! 10 Clever Luggage Tips from a Flight Attendant" on Tripso.com.

Wysong observes, "Many travel experts suggest carrying on all baggage versus checking. As a flight attendant, I may seem like the last person to be impartial, but since I am also often a passenger, I see both sides." He adds, "Anyone with a lick of sense will tell you that once airlines charge for a second bag, more and more passengers will start carrying them on board, adding to the sea of already overcrowded storage space. This will mean more hassles at the gate, delays, and those of you who only bring on a small bag will many times have to store it in the cramped space under the seat in front of you. My only explanation for the lunacy is that the airlines have plans for charging for extra carry-on bags next."

As a passenger who frequently travels with ski gear, occasionally with scuba gear but never with golf clubs (but it's the same situation), I hasten to add that those "travel experts" probably don't ski, dive or golf -- or they have adequate travel budgets so that sports gear at $25 per item each way doesn't make a noticeable dent in their wallets. Here is Wysong's take on the merits and disadvantages of various tactics for dealing with luggage (reused here with permission of James Wysong):

Pros for checking bags in:
1. You will have a lot less hassle at security and throughout the airport.
2. You don’t have to cram your gels and liquids into three-ounce bottles and you can buy duty free abroad as you can check larger bottles that you can’t carry on board.
3. You don’t have to worry or hustle for overhead bin space once you board the aircraft.
4. You aren’t forced to pack light and wear the same outfit day after day, or purchase clothing abroad.
5. If you have minimal time between connecting flights you are much more mobile if you must run for your next flight.
6. You avoid the evil glare that the flight attendant gives you.

Pros for carrying on:
1. There is no danger of the airline losing or damaging your bags.
2. You don’t have to wait for your bags at the baggage carousel.
3. You can access the contents of your bags at all times.
4. You can use the computer check-in function more freely.
5. You get the flight attendant to give you an evil glare as opposed to the painted-on
smile.

Here are some quick carry-on tips:
1. Size matters. Get a roller-board suitcase that fits into the overhead with the wheels or handle first. Many times the ones that have to go in sideways take up too much room and are difficult to find space for.
2. Shut it. Make sure the overhead bin shuts because even though you might have been there first, a protruding bag will be the first one yanked.
3. Try to be a softie. Use a soft exterior bag with some give to it. Many times hard cases just don’t fit regardless of how much you shove.
4. Water works. The liquids and gel ban is still in effect. At security checkpoints, travelers are permitted to carry travel-size toiletries (three ounces or less) that fit comfortably in one quart-size, clear plastic, zip-top bag.
5. Weight it out. The golden carry-on rule is if you bring it on board you need to be able to lift it and store it. Most flight attendants are not covered by their insurance if they injure their backs with your luggage.
6. Close by. Try to use an overhead bin in your immediate area for safety and security reasons. It doesn’t have to be directly overhead, but you should be
able to see it from your seat. When opening an overhead bin, always put your
hand up, ready to catch anything that might drop out.
7. Give it up. If your bag is selected to be checked at the gate due to space limitations, don’t worry, as it is pretty much guaranteed to be on that flight and will probably be the first one out at baggage claim.
8. It’s not personal. If you have something in your bag that you do not wish the security personnel to see, put it in your checked luggage. Trust me on this one.
9. Lend a hand. Help out those in need, especially mothers. Don’t get too mad at those who abuse the carry-on policy, be amused instead, but be sure to duck and be prepared if they are utilizing the overhead directly above you.
10. Utilize common sense. Recognize when your bag is too big to be considered carry-on and check it in.

Tour de France Travel Guide

Illustrated guidebook to the Tour's routes, climbs and towns

Every July, my husband and I are gripped by the human drama, athletic competition and sheer scenic splendor of the Tour de France, now cheerintelecast daily in the US by Versus. Especially that it's now in high definition, we watch the crowds in achingly charming cities and towns, the scenic rural roads past farms and vineyards, the cheering fans that choke down the mountain climbs and the fast descents from the alpine zones into the greenery. Every year, we talk about how fine it would be to follow the Tour in person, and every year I enter the online contest on the longest of shots that we'll win a trip for the following year.

We probably will never get there, but now there's a vicarious way to get the inside info. Graham Watson’s recently published Tour de France Travel Guide provides insider’s access based on 31 years of following and photographing the race. According to the publisher, VeloPress, "Watson has mastered the Tour’s daily challenges—where to eat, where to sleep, how to get around, how to see and photograph the race, and most of all, how to enjoy the greatest show on two wheels."

This beautifully illustrated guidebook features hundreds of Graham’s stunning photographs, full-color maps, travel tips, checklists and travel resources, plus such special features as clever menu decoder, tips on how to meet the riders, a glossary of French cycling terms, some history historical on each region of France visited by the Tour and even a chapter on how to photograph the Tour like a pro. I guess my trusty little digital camera won't cut it. Again according to the publisher, "this book presents a fresh and unique strategy for getting around the Tour’s many daily obstacles to find a front-row seat for all the action."

The price is $24.95, which is a lot less than actually being there.

To Travel or Not to Travel? That is the Question

Do tourists help or hinder reforms in dictatorial states or impact on human rights abuses?

The Society of American Travel Writers' 2009 convention is scheduled for Beijing, setting off a debate on whether SATW's presence is de facto support of a regime whose human rights abuses in general and policies toward Tibet in particular many members find abhorrent. For a specific take on China, a recent essay in Newsweek's international edition called "Tibet Through Chinese Eyes" merits reading. Not only SATW, but many travelers in general, often wrestle with these questions when a place they want to see, like China, conflicts with their principles.

Susan Hack wrote a Concierge.com piece called "Should You Stay or Should You Go?" weighing the pros and cons of such travel. She wrote:

"Picture this: You excitedly tell your friends you're heading to China for
the Olympics, and they start lecturing you about Darfur, human rights, and the Dalai Lama.

"'But what about Shanghai, and the terra cotta warriors, and all those cool
new stadiums?' Stony silence. There goes your summer vacation.

"To some people, boycotting the Games — and China as a whole — is a way of protesting its government's policies.

"But does that mean those who visit condone repression — and even help
underwrite it? Must travelers body-swerve countries with flagrant human-rights
abuses altogether?"

For my part, I say: Go! Whatever reforms occurred behind what was once called the Bamboo Curtain happened after Nixon "opened" China, trade and talks started, and American and other Western tourists began to visit. Countries that were once locked behind the Iron Curtain are now not only on the tourist trail ("Gladys, I can't wait to see the Kremlin!"), and former Soviet satellites are booming, some now as part of the economically powerful euro zone. Americans visit Vietnam, where some 55,000 US servicemen perished in a previous undeclared war. While China and Viernam are still Communist, so is Cuba, where a decades-long embargo on American travel certainly did not to close the long-running Fidel Castro show. Only age and infirmity caused him to hand power over to his brother Raul, and perhaps normalization won't be too far off, and American visitors will easily be able to join Canadians, Eruopeans and Mexicans who travel without difficulty to the nation that lies just 90 miles from Key West.

Hack tackled the questions of visiting a baker's dozen places where all is not roses and lollipops: China, Syria, North Korea, Zimbabwe, Cuba, Tunisia, Myanmar (Burma), Israel and the Occupied Territories, Russia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Iran, Venezuela. Some are currently such hotspots that only for the likes of Robert Young Pelton, author of travel books about "the world's most dangerous places" and whose website is called Come Back Alive. Others don't really want outsiders at all. Consider Myanmar, which is shutting out most relief workers who want to help the country's cyclone victims. Others only reluctantly let in any outsiders. In a recent CNN special, Christiane Amanpour reported on the New York Philharmonic to Pyongyang's (hopefully) ice-breaking concert last February. It was the first-ever performance by an American orchestra in the secretive People's Republic of Korea.

I haven't been to any hot war zones, nor do I have desire to do so, but years ago, I did visit East Berlin in the days of Checkpoint Charlie and spent time in Budapest when the Soviet shadow covered eastern Europe. I once crossed the former Czechoslovakia by train and had to get a visa in advance, even though I was not getting off the train, which surprised me, because in western Europe, it was easy to travel from country to country. And yes, I have been to China. Three times. And I want to go again.

Perhaps I am being naive, but in my opinion, travelers with open minds, open eyes and yes, open wallets are, on balance, a good thing. And I do wonder what happens when the proverbial shoe is on the other foot. For many visitors from overseas, the US is currently a travel bargain. Yet we photograph and fingerprint our foreign "guests" at our airports like suspects taken to jail. I wonder how many foreign visitors don't want to come here and be treated like crooks -- or who don't want to spend their money in a country responsible for Gantanamo, Abu Ghraib, extraordinary rendition or state-sanctioned torture to interrogate prisoners in our undeclared and ongoing "war on terrorism."

So read Susan Hack's piece and decide for yourself what's on your to-visit list and what isn't. For now.

Mileage Plus Tightens Credits

Wave bye-bye to 500-mile minimum credit for segments flown on United

Those short commuter hops on United, Ted or regional affiliates will no longer deposit 500 miles into your Mileage Plus account. Here's the latest salvo from the self-proclaimed "Friendly Skies" airline:

"To ensure that Mileage Plus miles earned toward elite status and award
travel on United are aligned with actual miles flown, we are revising our base
accrual policy. Beginning July 1, 2008, for flights of less than 500 miles,
passengers will earn redeemable miles equal to the actual miles flown. Elite
Qualifying Miles (EQM) will also be awarded based on actual miles. Elite
Qualifying Segments (EQS) are not affected.

"This new mileage accrual structure will apply to travel on or after July
1, 2008, regardless of when the travel was ticketed. Flights of less than 500
miles flown on or before June 30, 2008, will accrue Mileage Plus miles under the
previous policy of a minimum mileage accrual per individual segment flown."

Should you want "complete details," you can read them here. Interestingly, while United launched the policy of charging most passengers $25 extra for a second checked bag, US Airways was the first to tighten its frequent flyer mileage credits for short flights.

Straphangers in the Sky

Will "vertical seating" at Ryanair, the pioneering low-fare airline's latest wild idea, fly?

Ryanair, a brash super-discount airline based in Ireland, is always coming up with innovative and even outrageous ideas about packing as many bodies as possible into airplanes or deriving revenue from something other than the air fare itself. Ryanair recently conducted a two-week poll of passengers about "vertical seating."

Reportedly already available on some Asian airlines, passengers would lean back in their "seats" and would be buckled up, unlike straphangers on buses or subways. Ryanair wondered whether its passengers would be willing to fly that way if it meant free or super-super-cheap tickets.

The Ireland-based airline released the results of 88,000 passengers who participated in the poll:

Q. If it meant your flight was free, would you stand on a one-hour flight?

A. Yes 66 percent; No 34 percent

Q. If it meant your flight was half that of a seated passenger, would you stand on a one-hour flight?

A. Yes 42 percent; No 58 percent

Q. Do you think passengers should have a choice of sitting or standing as they do on buses, trains and underground transport?

A. Yes 60 percent; No 40 percent

Other than the oxymoronic nature of "vertical seating" itself, I have a few questions. How do you place a carryon under the seat in front of you if there is no seat in front of you? And how can the equate the choice between standing, or rather sitting vertically, on a plane with the ground transportation their poll mentioned. People who choose to stand while commuting generally have no choice. They do so because all the seats are taken -- and there is no fare differential between those who sit and those who stand.

Austrian "Prison House" on Horror Highway

Voyeuristic visitors flock to see where the latest twisted family tragedy took place

Some people travel to look at places where bad things happened -- some large-scale and public, and others once private: Pearl Harbor and the watery grave of the battleship 'Arizona,' the site of the World Trade Center in New York that became known as Ground Zero, concentration camps in Germany and Poland, New Orleans' still-devastated lower Ninth Ward, the Federal Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma City, the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, the Texas School Book Depository and Dealey Plaza in Dallas where JFK was assassinated, plus assorted decommissioned prisons, jails and dungeons all over the globe all come to mind, as do the creepiest, bloodiest displays in wax museums. The latest tourist stop on the horror highway showing man's inhumanity is the house (left) in Amstetten, Austria, where Josef Fritzl imprisoned his daughter in a cellar and kept her as an incestuous sex slave for nearly a quarter of a century.

"Two weeks ago the small town of Amstetten, with a population of 23,000,
was a tranquil place where little of note ever happened," the Telegraph reported.

"But the town, formerly known only for its apple wine production, has been
suddenly put into the spotlight after it was revealed that one of its respected
citizens, the retired engineer and property developer Josef Fritzl, 73, had
imprisoned his own daughter Elisabeth, in 1984 and kept her as a sex slave,
producing seven children with her.

"Two weeks after the story broke, residents are now complaining about the
"ghoulish tourism" that is developing around the Fritzl family house in 40
Ybbstrasse. People are travelling from neighbouring countries such as Germany
and Hungary to visit the street and have their picture taken in front of the
house. According to reports, the three-storey house facing one of Amstetten’s
main roads has also been put on the route of a sightseeing bus tour which now
routinely stops in front of it.

"'It is bad enough that journalists and TV crews have beleaguered our town,
but now there is this ghoulish tourism with people coming to Amstetten just to
see the house in Ybbstrasse. It is appalling, we just want to be left in
peace,'" said one Amstetten resident.

"The house is guarded by police around the clock as over 40 forensic
experts are investigating its interior. One of the officers on duty outside the
house said: 'People are coming especially to have their picture taken in front
of the house. It has become a sort of pilgrimage site.'"

The idealistic side of me would like to think that people come to pay their respect and to memorialize victims of horror and tragedy, but the realist in me knows that, sadly, much of it is prurient interest at best and titillation at worst.

Addition & Subtraction in Tourism Promotion

Israel Tourist Authority "claims" extra land that it has; Michigan "forgets" one-third of its state

The back page of New Mexico magazine is called "One of Our 50 is Missing," filled with anecdotes and examples about people (some of them officials of some level of government) who think New Mexico is somehow part of Old Mexico rather than the United Sates. The license plate even includes USA to clarify in which country a vehicle is registered. That makesNew Mexico accurate and proactive in identifying itself.

Not so the state of Michigan and the State of Israel whose mistaken maps promoting tourism to their area had to be pulled or corrected.

The Associated Press reported on a kerfuffel caused after Michigan released a map without the Upper Peninsula, separated by two Great Lakes from the more populous lower section. AP noted that the "U.P., which is about the size of Denmark and bigger than nine U.S. states, only has 3% of the state's population" was missing from a map released by Michigan itself. The correct map is shown to the upper right.

Some "Yoopers," as U.P. residents call themselves, felt slighted last year when a state-sponsored tourism commercial only showed the more populous peninsula to the south. The TV ad was later fixed." U.P. residents, who refer to themselves as Yoopers, have legislaion on their side requiring their forested, rural portion of the state to be included on all oficial maps.

The AP report continued, "Last year, some high school students from Escanaba wrote to a textbook publisher after a map in a history book appeared to exclude the U.P. from the borders of the United States. The map colored the U.P. white — like the void surrounding the country — while the rest of Michigan was shaded light blue. The map identified states by their postal codes; the U.P. was designated "IL," for Illinois — which had no label. Other maps have shown the U.P. as part of Wisconsin or Canada.

Meanwhile, across he Atlantic, a poster promoting visitation to Israel was withdrawn by a UK truth-in-advertising watchdog called the Advertising Standards Authority after 442 people complained that a map on the poster (lower right) shows the West Bank, the Gaza Strip and the Golan Heights as part of Israel. According to a report in The Guardian, the Tourism Ministry responded that the map was "a general schematic tourism and travel map, rather than a political map."

Airline Gains and Losses for Denver

Southwest to add more Denver Flights; Lufthansa to cut back

Good news for travelers to, from and through Denver International Airport is that Southwest Airlines is again adding more flights. Southwest Airlines is adding five new nonstop flights to Sacramento, Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood, New Orleans and Phoenix beginning August 4. From just 13 daily flights a bit over two years ago, the low-fare airline currently operates 61 daily flights and will be shortly adding those above.

Elsewhere in the Rockies, Frontier Airlines' new routes connect Denver with Colorado Springs, Aspen, Durango and Grand Junction, CO; and Jackson Hole, Wyoming, Missoula, Montana; Fargo, North Dakota; and Bozeman, Montana. Some routes are already being served; the last will be Bozeman's Gallatin Field on May 22. Republic Air and Lynx Aviation, a Frontier subsidiary, are flying these regional routes.

Meanwhile, Lufthansa has announced what it currently is calling seasonal suspension of its Denver-Munich non-stop late in October. It is planning to resume service in March. I am not sure how many Coloradans or other Westerners would be traveling to Germany in winter 2009-09, but given the strong euro and anemic dollar, I imagine that many European skiers will be traveling to Rocky Mountain powder -- and for them, the loss of this service is unfortunate.

DIA, the State of Colorado and the Metro Denver Economic Development Corporation provided a $2 million "incentive package" for Lufthansa to inaugurate Munich-Denver service, which started only last year. I don't know what contractual strings we might have attached to the German airline's presence here, but I guess it wasn't enough. Meanwhile, demand for service between Germany and Asia is accelerating, which trumped our incentive payments.

Fido and Fifi in Flight

Pet Airways transports canine and feline "pawsengers" to five cities


Pet Airways, a startup airline that takes dogs and cats out of the cargo hold and considers them "passengers" has inaugurated service to Rocky Mountain Metropolitan Airport (formerly Jefferson County Airport) to serve metro Denver pets and the folks who pay their bills. Other airports include Republic Airport on Long Island (Farmingdale, New York); Baltimore/Washington International Airport; Chicago's Midway Airport; and Hawthorne Municipal Airport near Los Angeles.

In this recessionary time, it seemed extravagant to fly an animal for $149 to $299 one way, but people seem to be willing to pay it. That seemed like a lot of money to me (having only flown a pet once, in 1988, for $35) until I checked Pet Airways fare comparison chart. It turns out that in addition to charging for checked bags, food, seat choice and anything else they can toss into the revenue stream, other airlines are charging a pretty penny to transport pets. United, of course, is the high-fee champion, charging $175 to transport a small animal under the seat and a whopping $250 as baggage. With today's fare wars, humans might be flying for less than their pets.

Pets are dropped off at the Pet Lounge to await boarding time. I presume they do not have to go through a metal detector, empty their pockets or remove their shoes. In the air, they fly "in safety and comfort" on Beech 1900 aircraft. Normally configured as 19-seaters, they can accommodate 50 pet carriers affixed to an interior wall. A pet attendant monitors the "pawsengers" and passes out inflight snacks, presumably for no additional charge. Like in the old days of aviation, Pet Airways puddle jumps eastbound and westbound, with potty breaks at each stop. And pet owners can check online to find out where their pets are.

Pet Airways hopes to have up to 24 cities in the U.S. and Canada on their route system within two years. Heaven help them if they encounter major weather delays or, worse, an accident. Meanwhile, it's either an idea whose time has come or one whose trajectory will echo the Clear security shortcut that recently tanked spectacularly.

Innovative Service for Internet Addicts Like Me

Service offers combination of connectivity and mobility for travelers

Shortly before I left for Britain, I learned about RoVair, a service that offers wireless mobile broadband (WMB) access. I have no idea just what aircards, datacards and evdo cards are, but as one who now drags her laptop around the globe, I do know what a hassle and/or expense it can be to find WiFi or Ethernet connections while traveling. I have struggled with Internet access at sea, because many cruise ships seem to have Internet centers with painfully slowly service via satellite at dial-up speed. I have paid through the nose in fancy hotels, where you would think that WiFi would be as much an included amenity as it is in many mid-range properties. My laptop and I have camped in hotel lobbies where that was the only place with WiFi service. I have driven for miles and paid usurious per-hour WiFi fees and otherwise sacrificed time and comfort to check E-mails or do some timely blog posting.

Therefore, RoVair's explanation that it is available anywhere there is a cellular signal seemed like a traveler's dream innovation ("hundreds of thousands if not millions of hotspots," the company says). As I understand it, you get a datacard and then use a "day pass" that is activated all the time -- or maybe the datacard and the day pass are the same thing. There are all sorts of other bells and whistles (including a price break for multiple cards and the ability to "light up" other devices elsewhere, which I probably don't need but might be useful for people traveling on company business).

Currently, you order your day pass for a certain number of days with a three-day minimum and return it to the company in provided packaging when the time is up -- sort of like NetFlix. "Soon," RovAir says, "day passes will be available from handy kiosks at airports, hotels, train terminals, shopping malls and other convenient locations."

In any case, card rental starts at $5.95 a day with a multi-day purchase, which made RoVair sound really, really, REALLY good. I was ready to sign up. Unfortunately for me this time, the service is currently available only in the US and perhaps Canada, but not in Europe or Asia.

To read about our trip, see my postings between April 26 and May 7. If RoVair had been in Britain, I could have dealt more easily or inexpensively with these specific situations:

• Lack of Internet access on trains, which was a bit frustrating, because there was an outlet and a table a each seat, which would have made good use of travel time
• The Famous Wild Boar Hotel in the Lake District has no Internet service. We didn't have a car, so took a taxi (£6 each way) to Bowness, where I found a cafe with Internet access at £3 for 30 minutes. We took advantage of being there to wander around Bowness and stay for dinner, but we did have to lug the laptop around.
• In Carlisle, one of the two hotels we stayed at had WiFi only in the lobby at a cost of £5 per hour. The second hotel had no Internet service at all.
• In Edinburgh, we lucked out at a B&B that had free WiFi in the rooms -- the only one of the five places we stayed with such an amenity.
• At the Sheraton Skyline near Heathrow Airport, Internet service was available in the rooms for £5 per hour or £15 for 24 hours. Gulp!

Therefore, I cheer: Go RoVair! I look forward to trying it in the US next time I am on the road, but more significantly, I hope the service is available in Europe next time I go overseas -- which, come to think of it, might be a long time coming given the state of the dollar.

And for anyone who has not yet navigated the rocky shoals of traveling with a laptop but wants to, the Independent Traveler website recently published a primer of what's out there, what you can expect and what you should take with you.

QE2 Bound for South African Port?

Dubai's economic downtown causes the legendary ship to seek another permanent harbor

In "The Flying Dutchman," a ghost ship drops anchor in a port somewhere in Norway. It is revealed that the captain, the namesake "Flying Dutchman," once swore to the devil that he would sail around the Cape of Good Hope if it took him forever. Once every seven years, he was permitted to leave his ship in search of a woman to redeem him from his deathless wandering. If he failed, he would sail the oceans, when the fantasy opera was set, until Judgment Day.

I thought about "The Flying Dutchman" when I read "QE2 Might Sail Again Before Becoming a Hotel" in USA Today. Just last October, when it became known that the former flagship of the Cunard fleet was sold to a Dubai developer, the All About Cunard blog explained, "Cunard admits the QE2 could have carried on for several more years, but Cunard president Carol Marlow argues the offer from Dubai of £50 million was simply too good to turn down and in pure economic terms it was probably the right thing to do. It seems that prudence over passion has prevailed. Dubai has promised to look after the liner, the fastest in the world, and moor her on [artificial islands called] The Palm."

In November, the ship reached what was to be her "final home" in Dubai (above right), where she was to be converted into a luxury hotel. As recently as March, the owner, a Dubai developer, reaffirmed its "commitment" to turning the QE2 into a luxury hotel in the face of rumors that that she might be sold.

Now, USA Today reports, "The cash-strapped owner of QE2 ocean liner - thought to be permanently resting in Dubai - is considering moving the ship to South Africa or elsewhere...Owner Nakheel, a subsidiary of Dubai World, applied for permission to anchor the QE2 in Cape Town, South Africa, a Daily Mail story says. The company's also believed to be in talks with a local hotel management firm, Johannesburg's Business Day says."

Is the QE2 fated to be shuttled from port to port with the promise of a new life as a luxury hotel, or will it finally happen? I just hope the grande dame of the oceans will not end up dismantled for scrap.

A Taste of Eastern Europe in Denver

Upcoming food and cultural festival in Globeville spotlights 120 years of history

While researching the Orthodox Food Festival & Old Globeville Days for Mile High on the Cheap, I found out that the Globeville section of Denver is a 120-year-old community with deep roots in Eastern Europe. Located in the shadow of the elevated sections of Interstate 70, it is mainly known as the site of of the National Western Stock Show complex.

Globeville might not have gotten much respect in recent times, but its history is long by Western standards and represents a tapestry of the American experience. Immigrants from Russia, Poland, Romania, Serbia Ukraine and Greece settled there and found community through the shared Eastern Rite religion. Later, they were joined and often replaced by people from such different places Mexico and Eritrea, and African-Americans too. Workers lived in the neighborhood was an important part of Denver's industrial landscape, and when industry and commerce changed and when Interstates 70 and 25 were routed by it, Globeville suffered. But as happens so often, houses of worship that cannot easily be moved provided a bit of a counterweight through good times and bad times.

According to Father Joseph Hirsch of the Holy Transfiguration of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, "since Globeville's incorporation as a town and subsequent annexation into the City and County of Denver, there has been a Summer celebration of some kind or another. For most of that time, the main Homecoming event has been the annual Picnic held by the 109-year-old [now 110] Holy Transfiguration Orthodox Cathedral. In recent years, the District Attorney of Denver, Bill Ritter, now Governor of Colorado, promoted a Globeville Community Day which positively impacted the neighborhood but did not involve much participation from those outside of the neighborhood. In 2004, the Orthodox Community agreed to combine the Annual Orthodox Picnic with the Community Days celebration and to provide a free public celebration both for the residents and friends of Globeville as well as an opportunity to reach out to and inform the entire Front Range."

And that's what's coming up on Saturday, July 18, 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. and Sunday, July 19, 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. when the the sixth annual Orthodox Food Festival & Old Globeville. Admission is free to this event that will feature ethnic foods, music, folk dancing international crafts and for the first time, an art show. There will also be inside tours of the historic and elaborate cathedral, which from the outside looks like a modest church. "Boogie Under the Stars" takes place Saturday evening from 7:30 to 9:30.

9News' Susie Wargin, whose own Denver pioneer heritage is anchored in old Globeville, wrote, "Inside St. Joe's, beautiful stained glass windows align the east and west walls. However there is one window on the west side, featuring the mother Mary with her mother, that shows exactly where I came from. My great, great grandfather Jan Wargin's name adorns the bottom of the stained glass. The word in my family is Jan was a founding member of St. Joseph's and helped fund construction while working at the Globe Smelting and Refining Company. It's a church that has always been very special to our family even though we are all in different locations now."

In the classic American tradition, some stalwarts like Father Hirsch, members of the Globeville Civic Association and Margaret and Robert Escamilla, the successful plaintiffs in Escamilla vs. ASARCO that has been called a landmark victory for environmental justice never give up on their community and just when a neighborhood is thought to be down and out, it is "discovered" by artists and urban pioneers who appreciate history, diversity and low prices, and the process of renewal begins. Globeville is on the rise. New sidewalks, undergrounded utility lines, zoning changes that favor local businesses and other quality-of-life enhancements are in place. The first major sign of gentrification is the multi-use TAXI development, an ambitious project whose first phase includes 43 residential lofts with 130,000 square feet of commercial and office space on an 18-acre site. Globeville's new second identity is RiNo (RIver NOrth), and the incipient arts district.

The festival is in large part a tribute to those who held on and made a historic community better, and all are invited to help celebrate. The event appropriately will take place at the Holy Transfiguration Orthodox Cathedral and Globeville-Argo Park at 47th and North Logan, Denver. For more information, call 303-294-0938.

2008 is the Year of the Volcano in Chile

Two major volcanoes eruptions since January impact national parks and resort towns

In January, the central Chilean volcano called Llaima began breathing fire, sporadically emitting lava flows that turned the snow that covered upper slopes into steam and sending an ash column more than 10,000 feet into the sky, as was dramatically captured in filmed reports from National Geographic and CNN. The 10,252-foot volcano is reportedly one of the country's most active, having erupted as recently as 1994. It is some 422 miles south of the capital of Santiago. The nearest town, Melipueco, was evacuated, as were visitors and rangers in Conguillio National Park.

Chaiten, some 400 miles farther south near the Chile-Argentina border has been erupting since May 2, forcing evacuations first from the nearby eponymous town of Chaiten, then the larger and then more distant community of Futaleufo and even moving out military personnel. This was far more surprising. "The long dormant 3,280-foot (1,000-meter) Chaiten volcano began erupting on Friday for the first time in thousands of years, and the huge plume of volcanic ash is clearly visible on satellite images cutting a swathe across South America's southern tip," according to a Reuters report. Airlines have canceled flights to southern Patagonia, because of the potential danger of volcanic ash being sucked into jet engines.

Chaiten's eruption is still going strong (NASA satellite, photo right). It is located in what vulcanologists refer to as the Andean Arc that stretches from Chile, Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. "It is home to 2,000 volcanoes, 500 of which experts say are potentially active. Around 60 have erupted over the past 450 years," Reuters noted. While Argentina is not usually listed as part of the arc, ash has been reported in the Argentine resort of Bariloche in Nahuel Huapi National Park and even as far away as the capital of Buenos Aires. The region is famous not only for skiing at Bariloche but also for Tahoe-blue mountain lakes. As ash, which soared into the stratosphere, continues to fall over a wide region, it could impact the ski season that begins in June, and the lakes might no longer be so pristine.

10th Mountain Huts are a Robert McNamara Legacy

McNamara and Margy's Huts established by the late Robert McNamara

Obituaries for Robert McNamara, who died today, in the national media understandably focus on his years as Secretary of Defense in the Kennedy and Johnson administrations, as the "architect of the Vietnam War" (which he later admitted was a mistake) and as president of the World Bank -- as well as his previous big job as the first president of the Ford Motor Company whose last name was not Ford. These high-profile positions earned him a place on the international stage, but Colorado backcountry skiers also know of him as the benefactor of two early huts in the 10th Mountain Trail system.

Both the McNamara Hut and nearby Margy's Hut, a memorial to his first wife Margaret, were built above Aspen in 1982. They were the impetus for the creation of a larger system that now spiders across the high country in the non-wilderness whose rough periphery is Aspen, Leadville, Edwards and Vail. The McNamara Hut is set in an area between the Hunter Creek Valley and Lenado in a high valley called the Burnt Hole. The McNamara and Margy's huts, which are shown on the map near the lower left corner of the map above, are both owned by 10th Mountain and are only open during the winter season to protect the summer range of a nearby elk herd.

The high-country treasure provided by olorado's 10th Mountain Trail system and its backcountry huts is high in my consciousness these days because I am among a goup of a dozen women hiking up to Uncle Bud's Hut near Leadville, which is open in summer as well as in winter.

Addendum: "McNamara Had Strong Ties to Aspen" was a July 7 memorial feature in the Aspen Daily News with a lot more details than I had known about. I'm not the only writer who made the connection after hearing he news of his passing.

Britain Travel WrapUp

Northern England and Scotland, on a budget but home with an emptier wallet

I've been a negligent travel blogger. I actually started this wrapup of our week a bit in Britain at the Sheraton Skyline at Heathrow Airport, but I didn't get a chance to finish -- but now I am. We took full advantage of the flexibility of our BritRail passes. Our only pre-planned time was in the Lake District, and after that, we tried to go where the rain wasn't. This was easy call, because it rained and rained and rained in most of the British Isles during our time. We had lots of clouds and a few sprinkles and one true sunny day in Edinburgh.

Here's where we went and what we did -- some of which I have posted here or on my Nordic Walking blog and on my food/dining blog:

Windermere/Lake District - April 23 (afternoon) to April 26 (morning)

Walked private trail on property belonging the the Famous Wild Boar Hotel.
Hiked from Ambleside to Troutbeck over a mountain called Wansfell with extremely limited bus service from Troutbeck to the highway at Troutbeck Bridge, we walk an additional 2 1/2 miles down a lovely country road to catch the bus back to Windermere, from where we walked an additional 1 1/2 miles or so back to Bowness.
In the process, explored the towns of Windermere and Bowness -- and a bit of Ambleside.


Carlisle - April 26 (afternoon) to April 28 (morning)

Guild Hall
Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery
Carlisle Cathedral - evensong rehearsal in progress when we visited
Hiked along Hadrian's Wall


Edinburgh - April 28 (afternon) to April 30 (morning)

Edinburgh Castle, including the Honours of Scotland (Scottish crown jewels), National War Museum, the Royal Scots Regimental Museum and
Museum on the Mound (Royal Bank of Scotland museum)
National Museum of Scotland
St. Giles Cathedral
City Art Centre
Ad hoc sightseeing bus ride (public bus, not tourist bus) that including a good look at the Royal Yacht Britannia, albeit from a distance
Sir Walter Scott monument and
The Royal Mile

We spent the last night at an airport hotel, the four-star Sheraton Skyline, which we booked at a good rate via priceline.com ($125 plus assorted taxes and fees). This American-style hotel is complete with expansive lobby, conference facility, swimming pool in a covered atrium, over-priced restaurant and somewhat less overpriced sports bar -- from which we watched Liverpool and Chelsea duke it out to face Manchester United in the upcoming European Football Championship. The Sheraton was the only hotel we stayed at that did not include breakfast. The add-ons: 24 hours of Internet service for £15 (that's almost $30) and airport shuttle for £4 per person (£8 for the two of us -- or more than $15.

Bottom line is that our trip was more expen$ive than we had anticipated. We tried to be thrifty, but due to the dismal state of the dollar, even thrift was not enough. We had a fine time and saw a lot that neither of us had seen before. We're glad we went, but we'll have to think out our destinations more carefully until the dollar begins to rebound against other currencies.

Travel Slogans: Good & Bad

Quest for bad slogans make me think the best one I've heard lately

I've long enjoyed Doug Lansky's irreverent views of travel, but until my colleague Christopher Elliott alerted me (and other readers) to it, I didn't realize that Lansky has a great, also-irreverent blog called The Titanic Awards, subtitled "Celebrating the Dubious Achievements of Travel." Today he posted "a few contenders" for the dubious honor of the worst slogans to promote tourism to countries, states, provinces, cities, travel companies and so on.

My favorite of his nominees is Wales. Lansky spotlighted the slogan, “Wales. The Big Country,” and commented, "No, Canada is a big country. So is China. And India, Brazil, Australia. If you’re going to start making shit up, why not say Wales is a tropical island with white sandy beaches and attractive, well-tanned natives who serve free beer around the clock."

Lansky is inviting readers to nominate other slogans that are lousy, misleading or both. I'm going to try to come up with something, but meanwhile, the first thing that popped into my mind was a long-ago, hopefully tongue-in-cheek proposal for this advertising slogan for Panasonic: "From Those Wonderful Folks Who Gave You Pearl Harbor." It famously became the title of a book by Jerry Della Femina about the ad business in the days now dramatized on the TV series, "Mad Men."

Reading bad slogans brought to mind a clever, simple one that I recently encountered. The small city of Manhattan, Kansas, with a population of 51,000 +/- adopted the nickname, "The Little Apple."

Security Procedures at Heathrow

Airport security is so annoying and probably so flawed that all I can do is blog about it to vent. While we were in Britain, we heard the news report about a 73-year-old man who managed to drive through a security gate at Miami International Airport and ended up on one of the main runways, fortunately, not when a plane was using it. Authorities speculated that he may have been disoriented. Duh!

With this in mind, we steeled ourselves for the security gauntlet at London's Heathrow Airport. Fortunately, there were no lines on Thursday morning, because if there had been, the many redundant procedures would have taken forever.

1. Before we could enter United's check-in area, someone examined our passports.
2. The counter agent who gave us our boarding passes and checked our baggage also looked at our passports. She also asked whether we had packed our own bags, whether our bags had been in our control since we packed them and whether anyone gave us anything to take along -- particularly pointless questions that are no longer asked in the US.
3. At the main security screening area itself, where two more people checked our passports and our boarding passes, we were astonished that we did not have to take our laptop out of its case nor did we have to remove our shoes.
4. But wait! There was more. We went from that screening area to a second screening area where we again had to show our passports and also to remove our shoes. We sent them and them alone through another device that might have been another Xray or perhaps some kind of explosives sniffing instrument.
5. Somewhere along the line, someone asked us whether any stranger had given us anything to take on the flight -- airport shop personnel presumnably excepted.
6. When we entered the waiting room for our United flight, we again had to present our passports and relinquish our boarding passes, which only returned to us when the final multi-phase screening took place. We again had to remove our shoes, which a security agent turned over to look at the soles. Was she checking whether we might have stepped into something unpleasant? Then we were frisked, not just a casual wanding but a real, hands-on pat-down. And then screeners unzipped every compartment of our carry-on bags and riffled through them. Finally, we were handed our boarding passes and permitted to wait until it was time to board the plane.

Some of these steps are standard and have been for a long time. Others might be required at all Heathrow terminals, or perhaps only for international flights, but I suspect that the final step is special treatment accorded to passengers bound for the US. I'm trying to remember the details when I flew out of Heathrow on British Airways last fall. I am quite sure that there was no separate shoe screening -- and I don't recall quite so many steps in the final pre-boarding security check. Then, the big deal was that the British Airports Authority was claiming to permit only one carry-on per passenger, but that was not enforced and has since been dropped.

When we landed at DIA, cleared immigration, finally got our bags that were so slow in coming up that they must have been put on the conveyor by a one-armed baggage handler and passed customs, we entered the main terminal. There was that recorded announcement from the Transportation Security Agency alerting everyone over and over and over that "the security level has been raised to orange..." blah, blah, blah. I think it's been perpetually on that announcement since the color-coded system was introduced -- except shortly before the last election when it was raised to red.

Staycationing on Independence Day

We don't tend to go anywhere on Independence Day Weekend, but a lot of people come to Boulder, as well as Denver and the Colorado Mountains. Boulder celebrates its Sesquicentennial this year, with a ceremonies and patriotic music at Chautauqua Park. It is capped off with a great ground show and spectacular fireworks at the University of Colorado's Folsom Field. For a list of free or low-cost daytime events in the Denver/Boulder metro area, click here, and for local fireworks, click here.